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Stall

 
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Chip1035
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:51 am    Post subject:  Stall Reply with quote

'07 SS with 88k miles. This is a long post. I'm giving as much detail as possible to get you guys as much info to accurate provide some insight.
So this morning, I'm leaving for work.
Remote start the car. Within 5 minutes later I walk out and unlock the door with the key FOB. While standing outside, I lean in to Insert the key and turn to "ON". The radio turns on as I has left it on while turning the car off from yesterday.
Walk around the car to pickup the newspaper.
Get in the car. Turn the rear defroster on. Switched the air flow from upper and lower vents to windshield defrost. Turned the fan speed from low (1st position) to MAX. Hit the windshield washer fluid. Turned down the fan speed to medium (dial is in the middle, that's 3 I think). Turned on fog lights.
WHAT HAPPENS NEXT IS WHAT FREAKED ME OUT AT 5:30 IN THE MORNING. You know, you're tired, don't want to go to work. Not expecting anything to go wrong.
Pressed on brake, shifted into Park, pressed slightly on the gas. STALLED, engine goes dead with power taking a dip before going back to normal. I press the bakes to stop (did not slam or squeeze hard). Service Brake System displayed on the message center.
Shift into Neutral. Start the car back up, everything is fine. I let idle for 60 seconds. Shift back into drive, without pressing the gas, I let off the brake and let the car roll. STALL AGAIN, but the engine didn't die this time. Power dips to almost a complete dead system. I hit the brakes to stop. Service Brake System displayed again. This time I placed the car into park and did nothing. I let her idle for roughly 10 seconds (kept all accessories as they were). Everything is fine. Turn the car off, wait for 30 seconds. Turn the car back on, idle for roughly 30 seconds. It is during that time the engine is shaking like a shiver. Go into Park, wait, hit the gas a little and now I'm driving off like everything is fine.

I drive for 15 miles into work not speeding and taking it easy, just in case she decides to let on me. All highway aside from maybe 1 of the 15 miles as city driving. Everything appears fine but the shiver shake is still there while at a red light. I also felt like I could feel the shiver while maintaining the 55MPH limit.

I park the car. Turn the engine off, get out, lock the car by key FOB. Walk up and down the block (in NYC, need to verify street signs are legit and read the apparent Film Shoot no parking notice). Get back into the car. Turn over the engine and plug in my Bluetooth OBDII reader, Check for any error codes and fine none. Checked the sensors, all checked out okay. Turned the car off, Exited the car, unlocked the trunk inside not via the remote. Close the trunk and begin to walk away is when I noticed something definitely wrong. The car will not respond to the key FOB. So now I go back to the car and inside I'm seeing no interior lights with the door opened. Insert the key and turn. NOTHING. DEAD. And now the key stuck in the ignition. Nothing will budge.

I checked the fuses inside the car on the passenger side. Pop the hood and wiggle the battery terminals, the positive cable at the fuse box and the negative cable at the body of the car. The positive cable going to the fuse box was loose. Still making contact, it was loose so I hand tightened the nut. Popped opened the fuse box and pushed in all the fuses. Every last one of them. Walked over to the passenger window and saw EVERYTHING was back on. Key in the ignition switch was good, radio was on, interior lights on, everything. I closed up the hood and went back inside the car and turned the engine over. Everything checked out.

So now, WTF???? I know after parking the issue was a loose cable but would this morning stall have been caused by the loose positive cable?

Any help would be appreciated.
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9C3
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 10:50 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Between all the accessories being on, & the loose battery cable, your car was starving for voltage. [in my opinion] GARY

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ZSPOT
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 1:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I'm with 9C3. Check your cables. All of them. Check the grounds too. Not just tightness, but for corrosion too.

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Chip1035
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 3:03 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I figured it all might be tied together. This weekend I'll go over all the cables and clean/tighten them.

Much appreciated. Keep you posted on the outcome.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

was working on a Chrysler van once. it was a early 2000 model, being used to working on older chevys they lady said the battery was dead. so we did the old unhook the battery and see if the car still runs, well it did but it ran rough. so we concluded that the alt was bad. replaced it and same thing, replaced the battery and fixed the problem. (not saying your battery is bad) but these cars with all the electronics need a complete circuit to run right. wee broke the circuit by disconnecting the battery and the van ran the same way your car did. she did have a bad battery

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Now that the cable is tightened, just keep it in mind. I expect it's a power delivery problem... funny things happen when the computers don't get their juice. If it happens again and the connections and cables are all tight and undamaged, then it'd be time to do some investigating.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 12:02 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Irish_alley wrote:
was working on a Chrysler van once. it was a early 2000 model, being used to working on older chevys they lady said the battery was dead. so we did the old unhook the battery and see if the car still runs, well it did but it ran rough. so we concluded that the alt was bad. replaced it and same thing, replaced the battery and fixed the problem. (not saying your battery is bad) but these cars with all the electronics need a complete circuit to run right. wee broke the circuit by disconnecting the battery and the van ran the same way your car did. she did have a bad battery


I just did this test recently with my Impala. PULL THE NEGATIVE CABLE ONLY. Pulling the positive cable on a running car is very dangerous if the alternator is good. You may already know this Chip, but you can't be too safe. Very Happy

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04ImpalaSS wrote:
How much miles are on those seats? How much pounds of ass were applied to the seat during every trip? Lol

wedebrook wrote:
This thread is about *this* far from being about me, all oiled up, eating chili mac in a walmart bathroom.

nightryder wrote:
My c**k broke.
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Chip1035
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:25 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Sorry for the delay in update. Last weekend, I cleaned and tightened the terminals. The positive cable at the fuse box was loose again only because I was able to hand tighten last Wednesday. Everything has been running fine since.

It was too early in the morning when it happened for me to comprehend the issues. On top how I'm not an early morning person DOH! . More so without coffee Evil or Very Mad
Thank you guys for the input. Smile Always appreciated.
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Chip1035
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Strange things are still happening. Lately 1st time getting in the car (usually in the mornings during the week), pulling out of the driveway I'm loosing power. Power drops then goes back up. But with no accessories on. After that, everything is fine. But lately now when I go out to the store and return to the car, there is no power. Pop the hood and power comes back without touching any cables.
Last week, while at the gas station filling out, there was no power. I touched the positive cable at the fuse box and everything came back. All I did was touch it, the cable was tight.

Yesterday, while driving doing 25-30 MPH. All powered died, no lights, no display, no radio. Engine died. While coming to a slow, I dropped into Neutral, turned the key to off then turned back on. Everything came back to life. Engine roared back. Put back in drive and continued home.

As soon as I got home, I checked all the cables under the hood. Everything felt tight. WTF is happening? I was thinking of having the battery checked but I can't imagine it being the battery. What should I be looking for? A short? Is the fuse box itself the culprit?

Be honest, the positive cable didn't look that dirty after I cleaned it weeks ago.
Here is the picture of the fuse box.
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PushrodPower
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:59 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I would clean off where the positive cable connects to fuse box in the picture with steelwool. Also clean off the end of cable with wool too. Scrub real well and see if it helps. You need to have a good connection.

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04ImpalaSS wrote:
How much miles are on those seats? How much pounds of ass were applied to the seat during every trip? Lol

wedebrook wrote:
This thread is about *this* far from being about me, all oiled up, eating chili mac in a walmart bathroom.

nightryder wrote:
My c**k broke.
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primet
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 11:54 am    Post subject:  Stall Reply with quote

My kid's 97 Accord had the exact same symptoms last week and a new ignition switch solved the problem.

PT
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