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2005 Impala Stalls

 
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GeneH
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 8:52 am    Post subject:  2005 Impala Stalls Reply with quote

Hi all, My 2005 Impala 3.8 has started to stall out when driving. I put in a new battery on Dec 30 and drove it on the 31st with no problems. Due to the severe colds in Wisconsin we didn't use it again until Thursday. The problem started on Friday Jan 3rd. It stalls out while driving and sometimes while just sitting still. It will eventually start up and run fine for a while. Sometimes it take 6-10 tries before it keeps running. I haven't seen any "check engine light". I've noticed that I can drive 10-12 miles before it acts up. Sometimes it will momentarily stutter/drop RPM while the car is moving but then continue on ok. Once when it shut down while moving I did get a "traction control" light momentarily. I have replaced the Crank Position sensor,air filter and fuel filter. I have removed and cleaned the MAF sensor,the IAC and sprayed cleaner into the throttle body while the MAF sensor was out. The car runs really well when it runs. Smile After replacing the fuel filter (last item) I had it running in my garage (it was about 35 degrees air temp) and the moter was cold, I pulled the MAF sensor wire off and it had no effect on how the engine was running and no check engine light. Is that normal or should the motor be at operating temp to have an effect? The "battery" light on the dash does light up when the key is turned on. Any suggestions/help would be appreciated .Thanks.
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98ss
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:31 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

It sounds like the crank position sensor went south, but you said you replaced that so it may not be the case. If you can get it to stall by it just idling put a volt meter across the battery to read the output of the alternator. I had one of those 2500 cargo vans crap out because of the voltage regulator. All of a sudden the voltage would drop to like 8-9 volts and then the car would stall. I would think it would be the same for the impala.
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IffyG
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

If the battery light is staying on when the car is one you need to start with the battery and charging system. Get the battery tested first, then go from there.

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Frank
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 11:57 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I would take a look at the IAC and maybe the FPR. It's a shot in the dark but it might fix your issues.

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GeneH
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 12:34 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks for the input guys
The red battery light goes out after starting up the motor. I didn't have any problems with the car before replacing the battery. I replace the battery because it was still the original one and I was fearing it wouldn't work at the 22 below zero weather that we were expecting. The new battery has 12.44 volts accross the terminals. I get the same voltage reading when I probe from battery + to the motor, so I suspect my ground is OK. The car ran fine for a few days after replacing the battery. The car runs perfectly until it just shuts down or stutters.
I'm going to get a fuel pressure test done but wouldn't a bad FPR be a constant problem while mine is an intermittent problem.
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bigdog60
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 7:43 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Anything turned on inside the car..blower motor ect ect..when testing?
should be 12.6+ not running
14.6+ engine running

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GeneH
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:37 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Well. Last Sunday I took the car for a drive. It stalled at least 6 times, at stop signs, during a 10-15 mile drive. It got up to 41 degrees that day. Later that day I borrowed an "Actron" scanner from my nephew. With it plugged into the car DLC, I drove the car to work every day this week, 14 mile each way plus a couple of side jaunts. The car ran perfectly. No hesitations, No stalling Smile . Go figure. I'm guessing it was something that was effected by the cold weather that went away when the temps went back up. Maybe bad gas. Maybe some dirt stuck in somewhere. I'll cross my fingers for when the next cold snap comes. Wish me luck and thanks for you input.
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GeneH
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

On the day after my last post the car stalled again. On Saturday, I took the throttle body off and cleaned it, I also removed the EGR valve and cleaned it. After all that tha car would still stall. I read somewhere that if you tap on the MAF sensor with a screwdriver handle and the car stalls, then the MAF was bad. So I went out and tried it. After about light 5 taps tha car stalled. On Monday I took the car to a local shop and had them hook up to the analizer. They said that the MAF sensor was OK but reading on the low side of the range. I had them tap on the MAF and the car stalled on the third tap. They replaced the MAF sensor and the car hasn't stalled since. I believe the problem is fixed.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if your car stalls like mine did, just unplug the MAF sensor and drive it for a while. If it runs good with the MAF sensor unplugged, then that would rule out any fuel, cam/crank sensor or ignition issues.
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IffyG
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:46 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

GeneH wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if your car stalls like mine did, just unplug the MAF sensor and drive it for a while. If it runs good with the MAF sensor unplugged, then that would rule out any fuel, cam/crank sensor or ignition issues.


If the MAF is the problem and it runs OK with the MAF unplugged it pretty much points the finger at a bad MAF sensor.

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