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Engine Replacement Info

 
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Lingenfelter
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:06 pm    Post subject:  Engine Replacement Info Reply with quote

Hey everyone,


Are all years of 3.8 interchangeable from 00-05? I know they switched from Series II to Series III in either 04 or 05.

Do I need to swap or reconfigure PCMs or any other components if I simply replace my SII with another SII?

My engine has been eating a lot of oil, stripped a bolt in the LIM with torque wrench last time I did intake manifold gaskets. I may drop a younger series II/III in if I get one for a reasonable price, just so I can keep the car around as a winter car.

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Pitch Black SS
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 2:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

if using the physical motor, all Series II from a W-Body should swap right in since you are using your own electronics / harness

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Lingenfelter
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:55 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Pitch Black SS wrote:
if using the physical motor, all Series II from a W-Body should swap right in since you are using your own electronics / harness


Perfect, fingers crossed for a good scrapyard find.

Which years had the better manifold gasket design? I know 02-03 suffers from the bad gaskets, but don't know how far into 04 those motors reached (if at all)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:10 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

dont know, but since the motor is out of the car, Id replace them all for the extra couple $$

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Just curious, how much oil are you using and have you determined what has gone south in the motor. I noticed that when I replaced the rear cover gasket my oil consumption reduced to a quart in 4k miles.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 1:49 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I don't think any series 2 engines came with the aluminum gaskets. All Series 3 engines did though, my '04 S3 donor engine did.

If you want a drop in replacement any Series 2 engine will work, but it will be wise to swap the LIM gaskets before hand (20 min. job with the engine out).

If you go with a Series 3 then you'll have to swap over your Series 2 LIM / UIM and then either swap your steel oil pan or grind a small bit of the motor mount bracket away to clear the aluminum pan.

If you have a 4-wire O2 sensor, then the Series 3 O2 will work, if not then you'll need to swap O2 sensors as well.

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Lingenfelter
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 2:10 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

98ss wrote:
Just curious, how much oil are you using and have you determined what has gone south in the motor. I noticed that when I replaced the rear cover gasket my oil consumption reduced to a quart in 4k miles.


Haven't had anything checked in the motor. I think it may have been run low before I bought it, since it's always taken at least 3/4 quart between changes. If not for topping it up, I'd bet it burns two quarts between changes now.

The intake manifold gasket (presumably) is leaking again, since I have a very slow decrease in coolant volume every month or so, the exhaust smells a little sweeter, and I'm seeing milkshake under the oil cap (but the oil itself is not milkshaked).

I'd swap the gaskets and accept the burning oil, if not for the stripped bolt in my LIM and block. At about 200 bucks in parts (Canada, aftermarket - for gaskets, injector rings and coolant), it's probably not a bad tradeoff to just switch motors, assuming I can find a decent L36 for $400-600 with low miles on it.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 2:45 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Yes, it probably is equally as quick to swap out motors.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 9:23 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

nightryder wrote:
I don't think any series 2 engines came with the aluminum gaskets. All Series 3 engines did though, my '04 S3 donor engine did.

If you want a drop in replacement any Series 2 engine will work, but it will be wise to swap the LIM gaskets before hand (20 min. job with the engine out).

If you go with a Series 3 then you'll have to swap over your Series 2 LIM / UIM and then either swap your steel oil pan or grind a small bit of the motor mount bracket away to clear the aluminum pan.

If you have a 4-wire O2 sensor, then the Series 3 O2 will work, if not then you'll need to swap O2 sensors as well.


Doesn't the series 3 make about 20 more horsepower? And the limit of changes to go to series III is carrying over my lim/uim and oilpan?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 10:09 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Dont forget the supercharger! Burnout

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:29 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Lingenfelter wrote:
Doesn't the series 3 make about 20 more horsepower?


Not sure. The only differences between L36 and L26 are stronger internals on the L26 and a different LIM / UIM

Quote:
And the limit of changes to go to series III is carrying over my lim/uim and oilpan?


You may need to swap flex plates too, although mine was dual drilled for both size converters so maybe not.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 4:29 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

98ss wrote:
Just curious, how much oil are you using and have you determined what has gone south in the motor. I noticed that when I replaced the rear cover gasket my oil consumption reduced to a quart in 4k miles.


quart every 5k miles as long as I use 10w30

if I use 5w30 it's every 3500 to 4000 miles


I find it pointless to add any since I change it after 5k miles.....

Good to keep the enigne lubed any how

Gotta protect it from rusting since it is made out of iron.




Series 3 has a returnless fuel injection system (no return line)

Don't for get the fuel system is not the same in the series 3 so that will have to be swapped out as well
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