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Change fuel pump in module, not whole module?

 
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DHag
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject:  Change fuel pump in module, not whole module? Reply with quote

I'm about to change the fuel pump in my '05 Impala. Only got 207,000 miles on it.

Anyway, my hide is chapped by having to replace the entire module (about $275!), when everything in it is working, except the pump is tired. The pump itself would cost considerably less alone!

Has anybody checked the pump number, type, etc. in the module? Has anybody replaced the pump in the module, instead of the whole module?

Gotta be possible. When I remove my old module, and before I break the seals on a new one, I'm gonna compare the pump in the module to a Walbro pump that I have for my '88 Firebird project car. Might be surprised. (This Walbro is 255 LPH high pressure.)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:02 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

In my experience as being a GM parts guy for 30 years, I would see this & say "why can't they sell just the pump"? Or send unit. Then suddenly when GM had to replace thousands under warranty on their dime, a stand alone pump would suddenly become available. Then when the last of the warranty cars were repaired, the pump would cease to exist. Used to upset a lot of customers. GARY

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 7:19 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Not the same, but I did try to do that with a 97 Lumina, no luck. But someone is making the pumps for them.

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primet
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2013 9:44 pm    Post subject:  pumps vs modules Reply with quote

I worked for Chrysler/Dodge for 22 years.
I was online when we went from carbs to F/I...(88) and spent the next 15 years changing 4-8 pump modules a day. Carter was the vender and it seems like they never got it right.

After cars/vans got out of warranty we still were replacing modules on a daily bases and people would bring in after market pumps for us to replace. It seems like it wasn't the pumps themselves that were bad but the module wiring. It got to the point I would not replace anything but the complete module. To fix it right the first time you had to buy a complete module...or take it to someone who would do it 2-3 times and get lucky. Chrysler pulled all pumps and went module only.


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DHag
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 12:57 pm    Post subject:  No Fuel Pump Module Access Hole! Reply with quote

Oh, joy!
I just pulled the back seat out, pulled up the insulation, peeled back the trunk carpet.

THERE IS NO ACCESS HOLE TO THE FUEL PUMP MODULE !!!!
There is a two-ring indentation for it, but it's solid metal.

My '05 does not have the fold-down back seat. It's a solid seat that must be removed.
Apparently, they only put fuel pump module access holes in cars with the fold-down back seats.

Thanks, GM... Which moron there decided....

Now trying to decide... Cut a hole, or drop the tank.

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98ss
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:13 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

It would be better to drop the tank a little, pick up the access door from a bone yard. Carefully cut out the access panel, and fit the access door. If you go too deep then you will really be pissed because now your in if for lines as well. Relax, take it slow and easy. Or just drop the tank, which would be quicker than cutting out the access panel. Better to do this one right the first time. Remember, all car companies short cut everything they can.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 12:27 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

one thing i see a lot of, is the little rubber lines between the pump and assembly on the 88-98 chevy trucks. it seams when they put that ethanol stuff in out fuel it would just rot out that rubber line. sometimes it would be all cracked up and wouldnt let any gas past or sometimes it would have small cracks that would just limit the amount of fuel pressure. had a buddy working on a early 90s truck he did a tune up plugs, wires air/fuel filter and still she was running like crap. i just happen to stop by he told me what it was doing. i asked what about his pump, he then pulled one out of a box that he just got. we pulled the bed back and replaced it. pump worked good but the rubber lines where toast.

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Frank
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:26 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

GM stopped making the access panel in the trunk sometime around 2003 to save money. I have a 2001 that does not have fold-down seats and I still have the access panel in the trunk.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:56 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Well... I dropped the tank and replaced the module. Main thing going on was the need to get it back on the road, rather than take extra time to put in an access cover or to take it apart and replace the pump alone.

But...

I looked at the top of the pump in the new module, and it looks very familiar. Common two-wire connector plus a pair of "slide on" connector terminals on the top beside the connector. That means it's a universal-style pump in there.

The connector on the top of the factory pump was different, but the new pump indicates that the specs can be universal. So I will remove the original pump, check its specs, and see what could go in there. Doesn't look hard to open up. The top of the module's plastic section has snap connectors holding it together.

AS FOR THE CONNECTORS--
Most folks know that the new modules need a different electrical plug, and it's included in the box. Apparently the current flow was too high for some factory units. The new connector has bigger contacts and heavier wires. Good upgrade.

BUT--
The new module includes crimp-on connectors for the wiring, and says to stagger those connectors so they will fit in the wiring tube.
1) I don't trust such connectors for something as important as a fuel pump.
2) They're big enough that even one won't fit cleanly in the tube.

SO--
I slid a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto each wire, then soldered the connections. Slid the heat-shrink over the joint, and shrunk into place. MUCH better than using the crimp connectors.

One more goofy thing--
The lock ring that holds the module to the pump has two vertical pins on it. I think to protect the electrical connector physically. Well, I had to cut them off. I could not get the electrical connector in to the plug in the original position. In another position, I could not plug in the fuel gauge connector. And in the other two possible positions, I could not engage or lock the ring. Sheesh!

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'03 Z-71 Tahoe 5.3-litre (Flex-fuel)
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 11:19 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

DHag wrote:


SO--
I slid a piece of heat-shrink tubing onto each wire, then soldered the connections. Slid the heat-shrink over the joint, and shrunk into place. MUCH better than using the crimp connectors
I do 2 way radio installs as a side line, & I NEVER use crimp connectors. I ALWAYS solder my wires together, & solder my RF connectors. PL 259's etc. Sure, I could see crimping a speaker wire which might take a minute to fix should it fail, but considering the labor to drop the tank, & pull the module to fix a bad connection, I'll stick to soldering. GARY

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 12:28 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Frank wrote:
GM stopped making the access panel in the trunk sometime around 2003 to save money. I have a 2001 that does not have fold-down seats and I still have the access panel in the trunk.

my first 2004 ss had the access panel. it might of been made late into 2003 but its title date was 2004. dont know about my currant one havnt had a reason to check it out thank god

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