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T stat change?

 
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Jnibbs24
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:02 pm    Post subject:  T stat change? Reply with quote

Lately my car has been running on the hotter side, even a lil pass the 1/2 way point while driving 40+ no traffic in the mid afternoon, 60-65Degrees. Could this possibly be my t stat failing? It'll climb to 3/4 while sitting in traffic as well and the fans on 5. Coolant is at norm lvls as well.

Any input?

Thanks

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bigdog60
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

On a 3.8 its about a ten minute job, I'd give it a try.

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Jnibbs24
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:37 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Yeah, I'll give it a shot Friday after I go get my bcm programmed... When I change the tstat do I need to bleed the lines at all?

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 30, 2013 9:57 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Are you getting a new BCM? Only asking because a used bcm can't be programmed. Yes open the bleed screw on top of the therm stat housing after installation and keep adding coolant into the rad until it come out of the bleed screw.

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 12:30 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

How much coolant am i expecting to spill from removal?

Yes I bought one from Zspot
(158$ shipped, or 252$ @ the dealer. You do the math haha)

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PostPosted: Wed May 01, 2013 7:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Don't loose that much. I use a turkey baster to suck some coolant from the rad first so there little mess.

Yea Zspot is the man..

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PostPosted: Tue May 07, 2013 11:19 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

well i changed the t stat out, the old gasket was chewed up and expanded like crazy. Put the new one in with a new gasket, bled the system till there was no bubbles and it was shooting out, but after that If I let it sit still for about 15min, it goes all the way to 3/4.. It doesn't go back to less than 1/2 like it use too. Fans come on at the right time. Did i miss a step or something? Plenty of fluid in the overflow tank as well.. I'm confused.

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 7:31 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Any gurgling or sloshing noise when you drive coming from the dash? This would indicate the system isn't full yet - a full reservoir doesn't guarantee a bled system.

Have you confirmed both fans are running when it's at 3/4 of max temp?

Possibly a fan blade has broken or a fan has jammed/died and the remaining fan can't pull enough air in to cool the fluid.

Do you still have the air dam under the front of the car?

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Jnibbs24
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 7:51 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Ya I'll get the slosh noise every now and then, the fans kick on a lil past 1/2. But one fan is loud as if the bearings are going out but it still spins full speed. Yes the air dam is still there. I'm guessing there is still air in radiator then?

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 11:49 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I'd recommend bleeding according to the instructions posted on this site. Some people say to open to rad cap, but I never did with mine. I had to bleed mine a couple times, a few days apart before I was convinced all the air was gone.


I don't know if old coolant loses effectiveness, but there is a lifespan on it - Dexcool is 5 years, typical coolant is 2 I think. Have you changed out your coolant? Maybe it's old, or you've topped it up with just coolant or just water, throwing off the mix?

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 2:18 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I use the 50-50 mix. I did a flush less then a yr ago.

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 11:42 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Lingenfelter wrote:
Some people say to open to rad cap
This worked for me. Did it twice after the flush, & it's been fine. No bleeding necessary. GARY

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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 3:39 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Seemed to have fixed its self, barley goes past 1/2 even in traffic... Weeeeeee

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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Replace your radiator cap if its more than a few years old too.

I replaced mine with a GM cap 2 years ago when I did my A/C and cooling overhaul. Lately, temps were creeping up just over 200* and my reservoir started filling up with coolant, with the radiator level going down. Coolant was sloshing in the dash every cold start. Opening up the cap released lots of pressure and coolant would boil over, and my hoses would go flat due to suction as well, and opening the left-side bleeder did nothing. Wound up replacing the radiator cap, topping off the radiator, and bleeding it again and it now works fine! Very Happy

A failing radiator cap can cause a bunch of issues, a good Stant or GM is under $10 so its not a bad idea to change them out every few years.

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