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Coolant bleed not, um, bleeding...

 
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swiss
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:04 pm    Post subject:  Coolant bleed not, um, bleeding... Reply with quote

Okay, no doubt I'm missing something fundamental here, please point out my senior moment as kindly as possible :p

So, to give you the full story, been having a bit of bother with cooling. Cabin heating stopped working recently and this morning the temperature gauge went in to the red. Wifey also reported gurgling noises over the weekend. Now, I'd checked the expansion tank the other day and while it looked a little low, there was still a visible amount in there.

Once the temp hit red I had a minor panic and threw a litre or so of water in there. Almost right away, the cabin temp came up and coolant temp went down to around 215. Bounced around a bit but stayed clear of the danger zone.

So I finally conceded that coolant level was indeed the issue (hopefully not one of many) and went to do the job a bit more scientifically. Following the advice found on the forum I popped the bleed on the water pump. Nothing happened. I waited, still nothing. I screwed the thing right out... nothing. So I screwed the plug back in lose and started the car. More nothing, not even the level in the expansion tank dropping.

Somewhat perturbed, I slacked the screw on the thermostat housing... rewarded once more with nothing. No air blowing out, not a hint of the wet stuff.

Now I must admit, the car's not parked on the level. It's on the kerb, driver's side down. But surely with the engine running it ought to be hoofing out of the pump discharge at the very least. If the pump were bone dry and in need of priming (or kaput), I'd have no circulation at all and my engine would presumably have blown up some time ago.

So, scratchy head time. Do I just need to get it level, or give it more time to work through? Or did I forget to connect the doohickey to the thrunge grommet again?

Thanks in advance...
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ZSPOT
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:31 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I didn't see it anywhere in your post. The RADIATOR is full to the top correct?

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swiss
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 4:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Er... bugger.

BRB.

Run!

[EDIT] Apparently 'no' is the answer Embarassed Time to find a watering can or a gas station with a water hose... thanks for the pointer ^_^
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Lingenfelter
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 5:16 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I bled my system exclusively through the bleeder screw at the thermostat. It ran a long time, completely dry, before ther thermostat opened and the coolant started moving through the system. Probably a good 20 minutes of idling. Over the next few days I bled it a few more times to be sure the air was out of the system.

Keep the reservoir topped up to ensure you don't introduce more air into the system during bleeding, or when the system pulls in more coolant on it's own. There is a 'full hot' marking way down on the reservoir, but the only real punishment for "overfilling" it is that some may splash out of the back of the tank (right near the top), where there is an opening to prevent pressure from building in the tank.

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Redshiba
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 5:28 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Let the car cool down completely.
Take the radiator cap off.
Fill the radiator and overflow tank to the proper line.
Start the car and let it start to warm up (With the Radiator Cap Off). As it starts to warm the radiator fluid level will drop.
Continue to top off the radiator until it will not take any more fluid.
Replace the radiator cap and open the vent screw to bleed the remainder of the air out of the system.

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swiss
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 1:11 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Good advice, thanks
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