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lowering KR

 
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LoudImpala
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2004 Chevrolet Impala


PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 2:49 pm    Post subject:  lowering KR Reply with quote

So, my mods to date are:

ZZP 3" down pipe with cat
Dynomax muffler in place of resonator
Dynomax 2 1/4 piping from Res to mufflers
Flowmaster 40 series mufflers and tips
K&N CAI
PRJ plug wires
Autolite 605s tapped at .056

I'm still getting around 4-5* KR. Most of my KR seems to be at lower RPMs when going up a hill or something. I'm still getting a few blips here and there while acellerating usually around 1/4 throttle. I don't run the car hard. I haven't even opened it up since putting the flowmasters on yesterday. Before the downpipe I was getting around 7-8* KR, once even going above 9*.

Any chance some of this is false KR since happening in the lower RPM ranges where the engine is vibrating more? I do suspect I need motor mounts, as the engine does have some vibration to it and if I rev it in park the car moves forward just slightly.

I'm not looking to drop pulley sizes or anything. Just wanting a reliable daily driver. Is 4-5* KR acceptable? Should I have disconnected my battery for awhile after installing the new down pipe? I'm not throwing any codes yet. I'm still thinking about getting the overkill PCM though, just to help all my mods come together and let the car run more efficiently.

Will old spark plugs cause KR? These autolites have about 10k miles on them. Planned on changing them next week when I do my oil.

Loud
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grimsin
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 2:58 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

these cars have kr in stock form, you are still close to stock. so im saying IMO its acceptable. a tune should help even more. headers would help the most.

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00impala123
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:40 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

What really matters is how much KR you have at WOT.

If you want to get rid of it, heres some suggestions:


Start by getting an OTS tune, if you don't have one. If that doesn't take car of it you can:


Replace K&N with a true CAI
Add headers
Drop to a colder plug (shouldn't need to do this at your mod level)

The tune should clear it, or bring it down to 1* or under. After that headers would knock the rest out.

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LoudImpala
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:46 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I finally got a chance to go WOT last night from 60 to 110. KR spiked up to about 4.7 then began dropping off before I let off the throttle.

I definitely don't want to go headers after spending the money on the down pipe. I also have emissions inspections to worry about annually, so the cat is something else I have to have. Really considering an overkill or intense pcm. I really want the overkill, but haven't made up my mind.

Loud
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HotSauce6226
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Are you talking (.7* or 7.0*) Knock?

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LoudImpala
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:29 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

HotSauce6226 wrote:
Are you talking (.7* or 7.0*) Knock?


I wish it was only .7*. My scangauge 2 was showing up to 9* before the down pipe install. Now I haven't seen it go over 5*, so the down pipe helped, which makes me feel better.

Loud
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HotSauce6226
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:33 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Geez. Ive seen .4* on mine back in the day and low RPM and I got nervous. But ive been at 0.0* ever since.

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00impala123
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:32 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Stock I would hit 7-8*, I get 0 constantly now.


Start with a tune, then if its not gone and you don't want to do headers, at least to a PLOG in front

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LoudImpala
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 1:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

00impala123 wrote:
Stock I would hit 7-8*, I get 0 constantly now.


Start with a tune, then if its not gone and you don't want to do headers, at least to a PLOG in front


A PLOG was something I was considering originally. After all the other exhaust work I didn't have enough left out of my tax return to add it this time. Maybe next month I can pick it up.

Loud

ETA:

Aaaaaaaaaaaaand I just threw the p0420 on my lunch break.

I know this is because of the high flow cat, but is my engine being affected by the code being present? Is it pulling timing or adjusting the a/f to make me run lean?

Loud
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00impala123
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 3:25 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

No, the code is simply letting you know the cat isn't working (even though it is its just the aftermarket cat)


It won't pull timing or affect anything. Looks like your next step is a PCM. That can clear that code, plus it can get rid of your KR or lower it a lot.

Part throttle KR should be all gone, and WOT should be 1* or less with it

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ramairetransam
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:54 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

have you replaced your fuel filter , and how are the wires on the car . Do a 180 stat and then get a tune . Do the fuel filter first .
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LoudImpala
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:23 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

ramairetransam wrote:
have you replaced your fuel filter , and how are the wires on the car . Do a 180 stat and then get a tune . Do the fuel filter first .


Fuel filter is around 10k. The plug wires are at the same mileage and are PRJ wires. I have a 180 Tstat, but have not put it in since I don't have a tune to support it.

Loud
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Pitch Black SS
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:52 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I believe the Autolite 605's are copper right? If so, Id look into replacing them every 12K, so you are getting close to that.

Id also do the fuel filter every 12K

A PCM should help, so will a PLOG.

As for the K&N, they dont block out the heat as well as others. Its more of a "less restrictive" intake than a "cold air" intake. A true CAI should help lower a bit also.

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