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2003 malibu starting clicks

 
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drew7997
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2003 Chevrolet Malibu


PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:46 pm    Post subject:  2003 malibu starting clicks Reply with quote

Hey all,
I know this is an impala forum. But i need help with my 2003 malobu 3.1l.
Drove home, backed into driveway, shut off, took 2 hour nap, tried starting it up. Received the below problem. Starter? It one that i will be testing. Help me.
http://s812.photobucket.com/al.....7717b5.mp4
If you cant tell. The cluster lights start as on guages on. Turn key then hold,
Click. Everything shuts off and repeats. Click off click off...
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Tizzle625
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 1:05 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Did the car even start up? If not seems like it would be the starter not turning over, however I think the clicking is way too loud to be a starter...

Or it might be an electrical problem battery or alternator. I had a problem similar to this, one of the cables that went to the starter was lose, so I wasn't getting enough power to and from the battery and alternator.
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drew7997
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2003 Chevrolet Malibu


PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

No the car does not start. Simply clicks. Now that its daylight i can get a better recording if needed.
I put the battery on the charger overnight just to make sure.
testing now...
Well i am glad i recorded this. Couldnt have explained it at all.
http://s812.photobucket.com/al.....daf4c9.mp4

After i turned it off then tried starting again, same resulta as first video.
Thoughts?
i am leaning to a bad starter and possibly loose or a non grounded circuit.

In the second video- the trunk opens by itself.
Although could this be the electrical gremlin i cant track down? Randomly without warning the car shuts off. I could be driving 25mph or 70mph. But every time, the car refires. Keep on mind that the car only loses a few mph in the time frame. For example: traveling at 70mph. Car stalls every cluster lightand gauge shutsdown. By rolling resistance, the car slows to 68mph. Cluster lights come on and car restarted. Reminds me of push starting for manuals except this is an automatic ...
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topgun
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:33 am    Post subject:  click Reply with quote

I cant see pics/video as I am at work reading this. But if you have repeated clicks when trying to start it is probably the starter. If just a single solid click could be the battery. Cool

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drew7997
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 7:57 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks. I am leaning towards the starter only testing will tell.

Anybody have thoughts?
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topgun
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 8:49 pm    Post subject:  click Reply with quote

just watched video, id say battery or connections. Cool

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drew7997
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 11:58 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Last night i was charging the battery. I placed the neg on neg post then place the positive ontop of the battery, not attached to any post. The charger started charging. I would remove the posi clamp from laying ontop of battery, charging would halt. I pulled battery grom car. Too it to auto zone. The guy said he couldnt test it because the battery would pop when a load was placed on it. I said "yep, thays what was happening." Thanks.
Drove to Sears. Bought a Diehard Gold. 10 less amps than my Energizer branded bad battery. $110. Out the door i go. I stop at advanced auto, have them check ot for a base line. Rated dor 690CCA. This battery put out 960CCA. 360 more amps than rated. Score.
car starts right up.
Whats the chance that i had two batteries die on the same day?the other was my Xterra. Sheesh.
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Tizzle625
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 12:16 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Wow, glad you got the car started up... These battery problems are a headache. I recently just bought a jump pack from pep boys, the original price was $90+ I got it for $60... This thing is all that, starts even the deadest battery right up!! Now I don't have to worry about flagging strangers down for a jump...
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Bill58
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2013 5:59 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

drew7997 wrote:
I stop at advanced auto, have them check ot for a base line. Rated dor 690CCA. This battery put out 960CCA. 360 more amps than rated. Score.

Unless the battery and the aa was at 0*F you weren't testing CCA.
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topgun
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:09 am    Post subject:  start Reply with quote

Ok, I gotta ask. So, Bill58, what your saying is, to check CCA the battery and aa must be at 0*F? But in the real world and for most of us the following will work.

Taken from Battery University - Garages seldom do the full-fletched CCA test; this belongs to laboratories. Instead, device manufacturers offer alternatives and the carbon pile introduced in the 1980s is one of the oldest and most reliable methods. To do a pass/fail test, a fully charged starter battery is loaded with half the rated CCA for 15 seconds at a moderate temperature of 10 C (50 F) and higher. The battery will pass if the voltage stays above 9.6V. Colder temperatures cause the voltage to drop further. The DC load method has the advantage of detecting batteries with a partially shorted cell (low specific gravity) but the device cannot estimate battery capacity.
I'm just saying . . .

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Bill58
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2013 11:32 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

CCA gives the buyer a "apples to apples" comparison. He got more amps because the battery temp was above 0*F. By definition cca is a cold test and cold for this test = 0*F.
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drew7997
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:33 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

How does one know that it wasnt 0 where i live? Lol
Ok seriously, it was 20. Battery was in trunk, the drive was 30 minutes. The battery probably started @ 72 degrees in sears. So that may have brought the batt temp to 50. I have never tested a new battery. I like the 960 that i received compared to the equilivently rated 875 amp energizer branded battery that failed completely after 4/5 years by not even allowing a load to be placed on the battery.

Have you ever heard of charging a battery by placing the chargers neg clamp on the neg post and posi clamp ONTOP of the battery?

Also i do not suspect that the location you are testing in needs to be 0 if the test is performed within 2 minutes of walking in, as was my case...as long as the battery is at 0.
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