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BCM problems? FIXED! Faulty alternator
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PBnj
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:12 pm    Post subject:  BCM problems? FIXED! Faulty alternator Reply with quote

When I turn my car off, my lights will flicker along w/ clicking under my dash.. which in turns, kills my battery.. all while no key in the ignition..
After charging the battery, id test drive it an my battery light shows up, then the car shuts off.. no power steering while I pull off the road

Put it in nuetrel or park and it an turn the key to start an nothing.. after a few attempts to start it, the lights strobe and the relays click..

Battery is 3 years old but scans out great.. alternator is 1 year old and starter is 1 week old..

Are these symptoms of a bad BCM?


Last edited by PBnj on Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:31 pm; edited 3 times in total
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ZSPOT
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 5:57 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Are you sure the battery has a flawless connection to the cables? Unseen corrosion between the battery bolts and the battery can cause some funny electrical issues sometimes.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 6:18 pm    Post subject:  BCM Reply with quote

I would do a load test on the battery. Cool

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PBnj
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

A month ago I kept having no start issues, after a jump or a charge, she ran like a champ.. few more times later I got the battery scanned an everything came out okay

Last week when it wouldn't start at all, I noticed the wire from my alternator to my starter was looking fried (pieces of wire cut short and other pieces not making contact to the eyelet) so I stripped the harness, took out that wire and replaced it w/ 8 gauge and put new eyelets on the ends.. still no start

I replace the starter and all is good for a week.. I've taken the battery out about 4 times by now an I've checked for any corrosion and none..

Now after she's charged, my voltimeter reads 12V off and 14.9V on.. I hear the battery light chime and slowly my interior lights dim to nothing.. message center flashes Low Fuel, Low Coolant Level, Service Vehicle Soon, Battery.. keeps flashing in this order until the message center slowly dims to nothing then engine shuts off..

If I take it for a drive after the battery is charged, the engine shuts off a few mins later and acts like it needs a jump.. gauges all do the same thing

Okay, I'm giving out a lot here cause these problems are one after another..
Original Ignition Switch still there, I've been needing to replace because my cruise control works when it wants, and my HVAC Blower stops an the cruise light flashes.. the flashing stops when I turn the dial to 2 or more, but still no air coming out.. when I wiggle the wires to the switch, the blower works and the flashing stops.. so I know that needs replacing

A few weeks ago, the shifting between 2-3 would over shift.. then its was between 3-4..then it went to overshifting both times.. the trans fluid is still red and did not smell burnt..I cleaned all the connections and the sensors and the problem went away until the next cold start.. but if I got it passed all that and she was warm, the overshifting went away.. I started pricing out trans fluid, filter, the solenoids and a shift kit, but now I'm having the no start issue
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topgun
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:28 pm    Post subject:  bcm Reply with quote

you say you have the battery scanned, what does that mean?
It must be load tested. Cool

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 7:44 pm    Post subject:  Re: bcm Reply with quote

topgun wrote:
you say you have the battery scanned, what does that mean?
It must be load tested. 8))


I'm not sure, just brought it into Advance Auto an they plugged it in and it printed out the results.. I've since lost the print out but they have told me not to purchase a new battery because this one is "fine".. pending on the guys advice I hope to get, I'm gonna head there in the morning and buy a new battery w/ out giving my core just in case this isn't the problem

I ended up using amplifier wire cause that was the only 8 guage I could find around.. would that have any problems?

Also, everything in my car is stock except for my FWI, my quad headlights and quad tail lights that I have running to 4 relays... 1 for the head an 3 for the tails.. and my wig wags that I have since cut following this problem.. all installed for over 3 years
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 8:58 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Check the connections again. The clamps on our battery cables have a tendency to compress the lead in the battery terminals over time and then will make poor contact, even when the clamps are tightened all the way. Loosen the cables, pivot them some, and then tighten them down - hard - but be sure not to strip the terminal.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:08 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I just came out to try that and my reverse lamps are slowly and faintly flashing w/ no key in the ignition, headlight switch is off and no interior lights...

I do see some cracks in the threads in my battery, but after taking the terminals out to check their threads, I retightened them and there is no play.. the eyelets on the cables all look clean also
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 2:02 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

It could potentially be the BCM...it won't run your car (VIN is programmed which has to match the PCM), but I would get a BCM from an Impala at a junkyard and see if the issues still happen. If they do, buy a new one from the dealer and get it programmed.

I saved my old one when mine went (the trunk ajar light was on all the time) just for this reason. Smile

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:43 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I thought you couldn't reprogram bcms?
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:14 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

ZSPOT wrote:
Are you sure the battery has a flawless connection to the cables? Unseen corrosion between the battery bolts and the battery can cause some funny electrical issues sometimes.

^This...many gremlins from "good" battery cables.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

PBnj wrote:
I thought you couldn't reprogram bcms?


you cant, he said to buy a used one from a junkyard to see if the problem stays. Car wont start or run, but the parked issues may or may not stop.

if they stop, then the BCM is more than likely at fault, BUY a new one at a dealer and have it installed and programmed

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:02 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I charged the battery last night to 13.5 and came out to check this morning an its still 13.5, so this means that the battery only drains while the car is started..

when I get time later I'm going to check the connections to the starter that I just installed, then check it to the alternator, then finally to the battery cables (I hate side terminals)

I messaged ZSPOT for a BCM quote and its not $90 anymore, but if the connections and cables all seem good, then I have no choice but to get a new body control module an get her towed to a stealership
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:39 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

PBnj wrote:


Now after she's charged, my voltimeter reads 12V off and 14.9V on..
A correctly charged battery should be 12.75 volts with the engine off. GARY

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I'm using an old voltimeter that I was told wasn't calibrated correctly.. so that it was "fully charged" the car starts up like normal but sure enough, a few mins later, the battery light pops up along w/ the 4 chimes..
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