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TeenBeach's Build Thread (Updated 8/08/13)
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TeenBeach
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2003 Chevrolet Impala
2002 Kia Rio


PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 1:57 pm    Post subject: Roleplay TeenBeach's Build Thread (Updated 8/08/13) Reply with quote

Need To Complete/Wish List

Unibody
Sand Blast Entire Frame
Fix Frame Dents & Damage
Get Rid Of All Seam Filler
Stich Weld All Seams

Install OEM Roof W/ Moon roof (Not Sure If Possible?)
Cut OEM Roof w/o Moon roof For Aftermarket Moon roof
"Shave" Engine Bay (Fill Unnecessary Holes, Ect.)
Rhino Liner Or Other Equivalent Underneath Unibody & Wheel Wells
Remove Excess Unnecessary Non-Structural Metal In Unibody
Make Sure Unibody Is "Diamond" After All Body Parts Are On

Engine
Magnaflux & Sonic Test Block
Machine/Clean 3.8L SII Engine (Bore At least .10/.20 Over)
Perform Block Oil Modifications
Remove Any Unnecessary Engine Bosses
Balance Shaft Delete
Block 50% Internally Balanced
Custom Billet Crank (For Weight Reduction & To Be Unique)
Clevite 77 TriMetal Main Bearings
ARP Main Cross Bolts
ARP Main Stud Kit
ZZP 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods
ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
Clevite 77 TriMetal "H-Series" Rod Bearings
Ceramic Coated Forged Pistons
Total Seal Piston Rings
ARP Head Stud Kit
Custom Moroso Oil Pan W/ Baffels

Brakes

Exhaust

Intake

Fuel System

Transmission

Electrical

Suspension

Interior

Exterior

So there is alittle secret I've been hiding in the ol' garage for about say four months... and its definitely a big project, something that i'm very sure you guys will love. Smile I am very excited to say that I am rebuilding a 3800 series II engine! This is something that I have been dreaming of ever since I have obtained the impy and now I am finally going forward with it. This is not just about the engine however, since I will also go into the transmission/power adder/exhaust/and even the whole entire car.The reason I am posting this is because I want to see how everything has progressed since day one to the final day, and ofcourse to share all of the knowledge that I will have learned with you guys.

So yeah, thats the best intro I could probaly ever come up with. So now lets get to the more important stuff. On Feb 21, I purchased a 3.8L 3800 Series II N/A Core Engine from a local salvage yard. I paid $264.00 for it, not knowing what car it came out of or how many miles. None of that really mattered to me because I am rebuilding the whole entire engine, with all new parts.



Now ofcourse your probably wondering what am I going to be doing with it and that I know I have plenty of options. Ofcourse I could keep it a naturally aspirated motor, but I really want more out of the engine. Then that leads to getting a stroker kit... but I just feel like it wouldn't be a 3800 anymore. That leaves with two more options... turbo or supercharge. I've read up on both of them, and I believe that supercharging will be the best route. I think that these engines were made for a blower and thats my final decision.

Okay, this now leads to where I am at now. After almost 5 months, I have finally disassembled the whole motor. The last part I had to do, which I finished today thanks to a shipment from zzp, was get the harmonic balancer off, and everything else behind it. It was a PITA (CURSE ever have a balancer remover fly off and hit you in the hand??) to get it off, but after doing it once I could for sure easily do it again.

Here are some pictures of the engine itself and extras:


Underside/Crankshaft (only was able to remove one main cap)




makes me happy everytime I see this! Very Happy




Balance Shaft Removed


Very Dirty, garbage pistons


Not to this subject, but just thought I show you guys some cool new toys I got Twisted Evil


Box of everything


Engine on the stand as of today

Now for the engine itself, like I have said before... I plan on every part put on to be new or rebuilt (like a supercharger). I am for sure putting performance power and pride into this beast. Not going to overlook anything, only do it right the first time. Thats also a place where I need your guy's help. I will be asking alot of questions and even though I will be making my own decisions, I will need you guys to steer me into the right path. My plan for the entire velhicle itself is for street/drag/show. No circle track and stuff like nascar.. its a family sedan after all!

I know this is going to cost me so much mooola and time, but I am very patient and willing to finish this someday. This is a very high goal in my life. Even if it takes me 5 years for everything, at the end will be a feeling that I will have been waiting for. Damn, I do talk alot and I thank you guys for bearing with me.

The next step now is to get this bad boy cleaned, machined, polished, and painted. When I get enough cash, I will be sending it to AMS Racing Engines for all of that.
Here is the link for their website if anyone is interested: http://www.amsracingengines.com/

I will update as needed. Any suggestions and comments will be appreciated.

Let the rebuild begin!


Last edited by TeenBeach on Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:33 am; edited 5 times in total
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outonthetiles
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 2:44 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Awesome! Keep us updated!

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TeenBeach
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 4:48 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks and will do! This is very exciting for me and it's all I ever think about, what piston is right for me, how big of a bore should I go, what is it gonna look like when its finished, ect.
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 5:17 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

cool man

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00impala123
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 5:28 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I'll play devils advocate here (although I think its a cool project)

but is there a reason you are rebuilding the block as opposed to finding a low mileage L26? If you just want to learn to rebuild it, that's cool its a fun project, just curious b/c generally not touching the block will last longer than rebuilding one

cool project though. what mods you planning, or just doing a basic top swap? My vote is for Cam, 130# springs, pushrods, FS IC, gen V, 42.5lb injectors, 3.2 pulley (or smaller), etc. etc..

but I GUESS its your project not mine..so you decide Laughing

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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 5:39 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

00impala123 wrote:
I'll play devils advocate here (although I think its a cool project)

but is there a reason you are rebuilding the block as opposed to finding a low mileage L26? If you just want to learn to rebuild it, that's cool its a fun project, just curious b/c generally not touching the block will last longer than rebuilding one

cool project though. what mods you planning, or just doing a basic top swap? My vote is for Cam, 130# springs, pushrods, FS IC, gen V, 42.5lb injectors, 3.2 pulley (or smaller), etc. etc..

but I GUESS its your project not mine..so you decide Laughing


What he said. If I were to embark on a project like this, I'd source a low mileage L26 and spend money on making the top end something special. That being said, I'm still interested in your progress.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

00impala123 wrote:
but is there a reason you are rebuilding the block as opposed to finding a low mileage L26? If you just want to learn to rebuild it, that's cool its a fun project, just curious b/c generally not touching the block will last longer than rebuilding one

cool project though. what mods you planning, or just doing a basic top swap? My vote is for Cam, 130# springs, pushrods, FS IC, gen V, 42.5lb injectors, 3.2 pulley (or smaller), etc. etc..

but I GUESS its your project not mine..so you decide Laughing


Well this will be my first rebuild, so thats partially it. I picked up a L36 because I wanted a Series II. Even though the L26 is the same end. Just curious why would rebuilding one would give it a less survival rate then a low mileage/not touched one? Is it because after cutting the block, it is weaker? The only thing I can imagine that could go wrong is if the block is cracked, but when the machine shop magnafluxes the block and no cracks are to be found. I also know that boring too much can put more stress on the entire block itself. I plan on so far to just bore/hone .10 off.

Why I want a series II? Just because thats what has been in my impala since I've had it, its what I am attached too. Mabye if I used a L26, I don't think it would be the same when I set it in the car. I donno, just how I feel I suppose. Rolling Eyes

Again, I do strongly plan on doing everything right the first time. Sure, faliures can happen, but I suppose this can be an experiment to all of you.... to see if this can actually be successful. I don't plan on this being a Race car, even though that would be awesome, but I feel like the impala is not a platform for such things. Just drag/street. I will be putting alot of performance parts in, but I am not trying to be the fastest thing out there, just want to be able to harness the full potentional of this block and the impala itself. Lol just my 2 Cents

For mods... geez. Thats a list that never gets shorter! I will for sure want to use the Gen 5 supercharger and lower intake manifold, ported and polished. Also a cam, not sure what yet though, so many options. Intercooler yes, same with the pulley, whatever is going to be right for the engine. Still trying to understand injectors and springs. Just a question to throw out there, whats the difference in 130# and 150#? Aluminum pushrods, ported and polished heads with bigger titanium valves. Looking into Moroso (which I will be discussing in a different thread later) for better oil pickup/baffles/pan. Coated Forged Pistons, 4340 H-Beam connecting rods, machined oil pump, electric water pump, clevite 77 bearings... the list goes on and on. Just think of it as I am doing everything. Yep, this is gonna put a huge whole in my pocket but its worth it too me. As I am ready to go to the next step after machining/cleaning. I will update you guys what I am thinking with what mod is next. Don't worry, you will know every detail. Smile
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 1:53 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

TeenBeach wrote:
Just curious why would rebuilding one would give it a less survival rate then a low mileage/not touched one?


They are built like a tank from the factory and more often than not, people that try and rebuild them end up seeing something fail quickly. In short, it doesn't make much sense to fiddle around with the bottom end of these engines when they are pretty solid as they come.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 2:42 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
TeenBeach wrote:
Just curious why would rebuilding one would give it a less survival rate then a low mileage/not touched one?


They are built like a tank from the factory and more often than not, people that try and rebuild them end up seeing something fail quickly. In short, it doesn't make much sense to fiddle around with the bottom end of these engines when they are pretty solid as they come.


This, the fact that 1..its not cost effective to rebuild the block, especially sending it out to a machine shop. You could pick up a low mileage L26 for 400-600 and use the bottom end (blocks the same) and top swap that.

That, and the fact that I wouldn't even bother with the bore unless you are doing something unique and trying for 9s. There is a ton of GP's running 12s without touching the internals (pistons, rods, etc.) and their blocks are more reliable than someone who rebuild with forged pistons. The stock pistons and everything can handle 400whp no problem.

Basically, in the end, its just not worth the time/effort/investment weighed with the risk of failure


If you use the block from the L26 and the same top swap parts, it IS the same.
I see you said you don't plan on it being a race car...i strongly suggest you leave the bore alone in that case. Honestly...if you don't intend it to be a race car, you are surely not meeting your goal lol. you going about 150%.

If you just want it to be quick and fun. (just a quick list)
gen 5..port n polish
42.5lb injectors
intercooler
cam or 1.9 rockers (springs depend what you go with)
ported TB
intake
headers
3.4 or smaller pulley
good tune (perfer dyno)
spark plugs (colder)
and maybe ported heads.

That (and if i missed listing supporting mods) will easily put you 13's..cam will likely be low 13's..high 12s depending on driver and if you run DR's

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 3:21 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

L26's have weaker rods, I'd find a L67 or L32, swap it in, and save yourself a bunch of work and headache..

But I'm all for your build, whatever you do..

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 9:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

00impala123 wrote:
That, and the fact that I wouldn't even bother with the bore unless you are doing something unique and trying for 9s. There is a ton of GP's running 12s without touching the internals (pistons, rods, etc.) and their blocks are more reliable than someone who rebuild with forged pistons. The stock pistons and everything can handle 400whp no problem.


Matt's TT GT ran 8's on a stock block (or very close to stock).

Duckcall's 10 second Impala ran with a stock block as well. Good enough for me.

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

nightryder wrote:
00impala123 wrote:
That, and the fact that I wouldn't even bother with the bore unless you are doing something unique and trying for 9s. There is a ton of GP's running 12s without touching the internals (pistons, rods, etc.) and their blocks are more reliable than someone who rebuild with forged pistons. The stock pistons and everything can handle 400whp no problem.


Matt's TT GT ran 8's on a stock block (or very close to stock).

Duckcall's 10 second Impala ran with a stock block as well. Good enough for me.


Yeah, that's my point....wasn't the TT GT bored out .01? or was that a different GP they build?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:41 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

00impala123 wrote:
That, and the fact that I wouldn't even bother with the bore unless you are doing something unique and trying for 9s. There is a ton of GP's running 12s without touching the internals (pistons, rods, etc.) and their blocks are more reliable than someone who rebuild with forged pistons. The stock pistons and everything can handle 400whp no problem.


The main reason I am taking the block to the machine shop is to make sure everything is alright. I plan on getting the block 50% balanced because I am doing the balance shaft delete mod. The reason I brought u the bore is because I might have to, the cylinder walls are a bit rusty and I see some big scratches. I want to get the block magnafluxed, clean as a whistle so I can powdercoat it, sonic and pressure tested, decking the block for a good seal, align-bore/hone the cam tunnel if neccessary, valvetrain alignment, deburing the oil galleries, drilling in extra oil return holes in the valley. Yes Yes Yes, I know this may seem overkill or uneccessary, but to me it is the extra mile to squeeze what ever hp I can get, and to make sure the engine is perfect. Like I said, I have the time.. mabye not so much the money but I'll do what I can when I can. This is very very very fun for me. Smile I do thank for the opinions, because I do take them into consideration. Partially the reason I made this thread. You guys know alot, some alot more then others.

00impala123 wrote:
If you use the block from the L26 and the same top swap parts, it IS the same.
I see you said you don't plan on it being a race car...i strongly suggest you leave the bore alone in that case. Honestly...if you don't intend it to be a race car, you are surely not meeting your goal lol. you going about 150%.


Okay okay, so mabye I like to lie to myself lol. I don't want it to be NASCAR material, I just want it to be very fast. Something that when I bring to the track, people will freak at how fast this fwd 3800 is. When I bring it to shows, people will appreciate the work I put into it, and that its built not bought. You know that some people actually bore these blocks out to .60? Thats crazy! I am for sure only doing .10, mabye mabye mabye .20. But probably .10 so if something goes wrong the the future I can bore it out another .10.

So on to the next update.. I've been reading around like I do 24/7 and I realize I can't just take it to the machine shop if I want everything perfect. I will need to get some parts first Wink

So this is my list of what I will need before taking the block to the machine shop:

ZZP 4340 H-Beam Connecting Rods
ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
JE 2618 ceramic coated alloy Forged Pistons or Diamond 4032 ceramic coated alloy Forged Pistons (what do you think?)
I am not too sure about compression, I believe a higher compression is good for the m90s correct? Also would the pistons need to be the actually compression the engine will be at or are they just adding compression? Because I know alot of things can affect compression such as decking the block. Hopefully you can understand that question Embarassed

Clevite 77 Main and Cam Bearings
Clevite 77 TriMetal H Series Rod Bearings
ARP Main Cross Bolts
ARP Main Stud Kit
Total Seal Rings (Heard alot of people using these?)

Now I have another question, what is all need for a shop to do a perfect 50% balance? I heard you need the actual flex plate and harmonic balancer that you will be using for the rebuild. Is this true? Also would you need the rear cover, front timing cover, everything under the timing cover?
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00impala123
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:49 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I've never heard of someone boring it .6..thats just stupid and you would crack the block in short time

theres a reason ZZP only bored out .010 over in the build they did


and yes, for s/c setup higher compression is better.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 11:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Evil or Very Mad No worries, this project didn't die... The fun just started!

So what has been going on?

As of 8/8/2013:

Just been tearing her apart down to the her panties... Oh I mean unibody shell Laughing

Here some pictures for ya...







Hmm... After selling my alloys and steelies, I pondered... how am I gonna move this beast around? Damn.. lol


Interior has been last on the list... but another oops! Took out battery before taking out the power seats DOH!




Booty has not been touched yet.. But I smell a Quad Tail light mod and quad exhaust looking pretty in the future.




150k miles of fun & reliability... served me well and I will miss her but hopefully will be sold this coming week. Going to be put in a Bonneville I believe.


The replacement... lot of potential, cant you tell? Laughing


IMPALA PARTSSS!!! XD


Ofcourse I had too... just ignore my cat shirt lmfao

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