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Front hub replacement tips

 
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 5:07 pm    Post subject:  Front hub replacement tips Reply with quote

Wow, do I feel dumb or what? Confused

I always thought the front hub bolts were hard to reach, and then yesterday I realized that a 4-6" extension or deep socket gives you enough room to have the ratchet where you have room to turn it. Exclamation

I had always taken apart the suspension to replace the hubs since the axle end would never allow me to have a regular socket and ratchet in there. Now with the extension, I was able to replace the front hubs and tie rod ends in 1 hour each yesterday! I feel ssoo s-m-r-t now Laughing

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IffyG
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Laughing It's still tight with the extension, but it certainly beats taking the suspension apart. When you took out the suspension, did you pull the knuckle to get at the hub bolts? If so, I can see exactly why you put off changing them out this time.

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MISHNAH
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA/Houston, TX GEAUX TIGERS!!!

2002 Chevrolet Impala
2006 Mercedes-Benz E Class
2006 Nissan Murano
2003 BMW 5 Series


PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:18 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
Laughing It's still tight with the extension, but it certainly beats taking the suspension apart. When you took out the suspension, did you pull the knuckle to get at the hub bolts? If so, I can see exactly why you put off changing them out this time.


It wasnt too bad, I have a 5" wobble extension which worked fine, but I made DAMN sure it was as straight as possible, hub bolts can strip rather easily (axe how I know!). As long as you have an extension, this job is quite easy and doesnt require taking the suspension apart.

I bought the GM tool to pop the ball joint on the left side, but didnt have a thin enough wrench to use it. Mad And since I couldnt get a torque wrench to retighten the ball joint nut, I wound up removing the knuckle bolts so I could get the axle out of the way. Rolling Eyes I then did the right side using the extension, took significantly less time. Laughing

A thinner 18mm wrench and some crowfoot wrenches would have made popping the ball joint much easier.

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2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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IffyG
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:17 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:

It wasnt too bad, I have a 5" wobble extension which worked fine, but I made DAMN sure it was as straight as possible, hub bolts can strip rather easily (axe how I know!). As long as you have an extension, this job is quite easy and doesnt require taking the suspension apart.


I've found it's easiest (and least likely to strip a hub bolt) by using a standard socket and the shortest extension possible break the bolt loose, then depending on the bolt use a longer extension or a universal joint to help back them out the rest of the way.

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Frank
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 12:27 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

My special tool for taking the ball joints apart was a ten pound sledge...I would just whack the side of the knuckle a few times, then use a prybar on the control arm to try to get the thing out. Sometimes it would be easy and sometimes it would be a pain in the butt.

The ball joint removal tool from Harbor Freight works great on both tie rod ends and ball joints and it's less than $20. The only thing is that you have to grind a little off the inside edges to round them out so it fits over the ball joint all the way.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3.....99849.html

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98ss
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:50 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

For ball joints...air hammer, for all other suspension 40 oz snap on ball peen hammer works pretty good.
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DerekJeter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 10:12 pm    Post subject:  Re: Front hub replacement tips Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:
I had always taken apart the suspension to replace the hubs ...


I had to do that on my Cobalt, not because the bolts were hard to reach, but because the hub was seized into the aluminum steering knuckle and I couldn't get it to slip out. I took the knuckle into the shop to have the guy press the hub out, but I could hear him in the back room pounding it out, with a hammer and chisel I suppose. I thought, next time I'll just do it myself.

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Irish_alley
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2011 7:22 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

power tools help alot. took one of those ball joint forks you smack with a hammer and took a piece of pipe that slid over it (as a sleeve to align both parts) and used a impact hammer to pop the joint off works like a charm even on my 79 k20

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