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Oil pan gasket replacement -

 
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98ss
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2002 Chevrolet Impala
2011 Chevrolet Silverado


PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:03 pm    Post subject:  Oil pan gasket replacement - Reply with quote

So I tackled the oil pan replacement on the 3.8L this weekend. It took approx 5-6 hours and a lot of patients. I read a lot of posts here and I thought I would clear some stuff up. The engine cradle does not need to be removed, the ac compressor also does not need to be removed, and you don't have to do remove any of the other crap such as the exhaust. I used an otc 1725 cross brace to support the engine and trans. and gear wrenches are your friend when doing this job. Here is my step by step process (skipping the draining oil, on jack stands ect:


Engine mount removal and engine support

-Loosen up transmission mount bolts
-remove all engine mount bolts top and bottom
-use the brace to lift the engine and trans up. there will come a point where the there is a bit of resistance when lifting...this means stop.
-use a piece of 2x8 on your floor jack under the oil pan to help remove the engine mount (don't worry, you won't put as much pressure as you think on the pan/gasket your just tilting it to get the mount out) and sneak the engine mount out and lower the jack.

Stupid U-brace under oil pan that mounts to engine mount removal

-There are 2 bolts near the ac compressor and 3 bolts on the back side of the block (nearly impossible to get to)
-Use a 15mm wrench combined with a double wrench trick to break the bolts near the ac compressor, and remove. I found that the U-brace is actually under some tension (or atleast mine was)
-There are 3 bolts on the back of the block to remove. This is where the gear wrench xl comes in handy.
-Push up on the U-brace and it will rotate out, be mindful there is a sensor near the u-brace.

Oil pan removal

-Remove the oil level sensor on the front of the pan
-Remove the plastic flywheel cover 2-10mm course thread bolts
-Remove all the oil pan bolts 3/8" and are not metric (it helps if you have an air rachet or 3/8 impact, saves time)
-Pull down on the oil pan
-The gasket is rtv'd in places so it is a little difficult to break free
-the gasket can be contorted so there is no need to remove the oil pump pickup
-Clean up the oil pan and gasket surfaces on the block

Oil pan installation
-Even though my new napa gasket said no rtv needed, I really don't want to do the gasket again so it got rtv
-Instead of putting the rtv on the gasket, put it on block and put the new gasket up and press it on (it will stay up there)
-Rtv on the oil pan and put up to the gasket, put 2 bolts in to hold up
-Then install the 3 bolts on the front of the oil pan before the rest, install the rest of the bolts (if you have a 1/4 inch air rachet use it)
-Torque the pan bolts to 10.5 ft lbs (124 in lbs according to the manual)
-Install the oil level sensor.

Installation of the U-bracket - This part sux and took 3 hours so if you have no patients this may not be for you. There is an order of bolt installation that makes things easier

-Install the rear top bolt towards the front of the motor, but do not tighten all the way
-The bolt between the motor and trans is pita, but it can be done. If you have long fingers its a plus. What I did was place the mount in the approx area where it should go, then put the bolt hole and push up lightly on the mount which will hold the bolt. Good luck starting the bolt, it took me a few tries but it can be done.
-Now on to the ac bolts...do the hard one first or the one towards the front of the motor, then the rear one.
-Now tighten up the bolts and install the 1 rear one you didn't.

Motor mount installation
-Use the jack and 2x8 again to tilt the motor up and slide in the mount
-Put the u bracket to motor mounts on a few turns
-Lining up the motor mount to cradle can a bit, but a small rubber mallet will work. Lower the motor a bit from the cross brace to put a bit of tension on the motor mount. Once in the holes, tighten up all the bolts on the motor mount.
-Oh yeah, don't forget to tighten the trans mount.
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jmakinen
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Joined: Feb 24, 2011
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Location: Negaunee, MI

2005 Chevrolet Impala


PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:31 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Good post, well explained. The only thing that could've aided this would be pics. I usually don't deal with camera's while I'm wrenching though... I'd never get the oil and grease off of it. Very informative post!

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Redshiba
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Location: Utah

2002 Chevrolet Impala
2009 Chevrolet Silverado


PostPosted: Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:45 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I replaced my pan gasket today. It took me 3 - 3 1/2 hours. I was able to get the bolts back into the U-Bracket in about 1/2 hour. It was not too bad of a job.


In the process I found two more new projects:
1. I have one of the coolant elbow's leaking.
2. Right front brake caliper is leaking.

It's always something especially after you get over 100,000 miles.

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98ss
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2002 Chevrolet Impala
2011 Chevrolet Silverado


PostPosted: Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Redshiba wrote:
I replaced my pan gasket today. It took me 3 - 3 1/2 hours. I was able to get the bolts back into the U-Bracket in about 1/2 hour. It was not too bad of a job.


In the process I found two more new projects:
1. I have one of the coolant elbow's leaking.
2. Right front brake caliper is leaking.

It's always something especially after you get over 100,000 miles.


Atleast your new projects are a less PITA, and parts are cheap. That is a bonus to owning an impala. Replacement parts are cheap.
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