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l26 swap went wrong

 
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Sailor77
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 11:30 pm    Post subject:  l26 swap went wrong Reply with quote

After swapping a l26 into my 2003 Impala I have a few issues. The low oil pressure light came on after less than 25 miles. While investigating I have a knock in the the bottom end. I pulled the pan and found small metal pieces, which I can not identify, picture attached. The rod bearings look good, not spun or wiped out, but the oil shows signs of such. The second problem is the engine isn't venting. When I drained the oil, only about a qt came out. When I pulled the fill tube, the rest came out.

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nightryder
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:58 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

That bottom end is shot, better start looking for a new one.

You had the oil fill cap off and the oil still didn't drain?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 12:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

nightryder wrote:
You had the oil fill cap off and the oil still didn't drain?


Shocked This.

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Sailor77
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 12:09 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Negative, when I pulled the oil fill cap the pressure was released and the oil drained.

I am really curious as to what those large pieces of metal are., any ideas?

The rod bearings dont look bad. I am pulling the mains later today. Why can't I just replace bearings and button it back up?
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nightryder
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 12:21 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I wouldn't expect the oil to drain all that fast if the oil fill cap isn't off.

3800 bottom ends do not like being rebuilt. Chances are you will need to rebuild it again fairly soon, especially if you are topswapping. You will need a full on rebuild if all that metal was sent throughout the engine. It's more cost effective to just pick up another block and swap it out.

I need better pictures of the chunks, clean them off and try to piece them together. It's hard to tell from that pic. But rest assured, they most likely belong to something important Laughing

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Sailor77
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 12:28 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

No top swap planned. The L26 has 55K on it, but sat for a year and a half, that is what led me to believe a spun bearing. Oil certainly shows signs of that. I have seen plenty of 3.8 and 4.3's bottom end rebuilt and run for 40,000 miles plus, what is so different about the 3800? I will get the pieces cleaned and put together and get another pic up tonight.
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00impala123
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:57 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Sailor77 wrote:
No top swap planned. The L26 has 55K on it, but sat for a year and a half, that is what led me to believe a spun bearing. Oil certainly shows signs of that. I have seen plenty of 3.8 and 4.3's bottom end rebuilt and run for 40,000 miles plus, what is so different about the 3800? I will get the pieces cleaned and put together and get another pic up tonight.


Why rebuild it for 200 and have it last for 40k when you can pick up a low mileage block for 300 or 400 and have it last 100k?

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nightryder
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 7:21 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

00impala123 wrote:
Why rebuild it for 200 and have it last for 40k when you can pick up a low mileage block for 300 or 400 and have it last 100k?


A full rebuild will cost the OP much more than $200, $500 at the least.

With that much metal in the oil you're going to need a full tear down/rebuild and unless you know what you are doing it's more cost effective to buy another block. But what do I know, it's not like I have any experience in this department anyways Laughing

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Sailor77
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:14 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I will agree that a rebuilt will be closer to $500 or more. Just gaskets alone will be in the $200 range. I would not buy a low milage short block and just stick it in. That is what got me to where I am now, a 55K longblock that obviously wasn't that good. The least invasive I can think of would be to pull the block, have the crank checked, and make sure nothing in the lower intake looks bad. Or for $100 I slam a set of bearings in it, and cross my fingers. $100 is worth the 10hrs of RR and I might save.
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bbengineer
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 8:20 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IMO, with that amount of metal in the engine, any money spent on the current block is a waste of money. You'll just be opening a Pandora's box at this point

I'm w/ nightryder, get another low mileage L26 and swap it in.. this is only the first or second time I have seen someone have this type of issue w/ an L26 swap

Where did you get the L26? Did you talk to them about the issue and getting another one to replace the bad one they gave you?

Just out of curiosity, did you swap the L36 oil pan on? or modify the L26's?

BBEngineer

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nightryder
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 12:02 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

bbengineer wrote:
Where did you get the L26? Did you talk to them about the issue and getting another one to replace the bad one they gave you?


I would look into that, my L26 block came with a 6 month warranty from the Junk Yard.

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