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Oil leak, CV Joint, and Tire Wear

 
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barnettimpala
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:49 am    Post subject:  Oil leak, CV Joint, and Tire Wear Reply with quote

Ok, so I changed the oil in the imp and rotated the tires today. Noticed 3 issues. First: oil accumulation. I've been losing some oil, I'm not sure how much, but probably a quart every 3000-5000 miles. I assumed my intake gaskets were starting to go because the coolant was pretty dark and gunky, but I noticed there was oil accumulated on the bottom of the oil pan. I can't tell where it's coming from, but there seems to be more towards the back side of the motor and on the side where the transmission is. Here's some pics of it. From the pics, it seems like it could be coming from the drain plug but i dont think it is.


Second: A boot on my driver's side axle seems to be leaking. It looks like it came off where it's supposed to be clamped too and it didn't feel like it would be moved very easily. I didn't think the clamp was even there but when I saw the pics, maybe its right in front of me. I'll have to go out and look if the bolt on the clamp in on the underside. Also, is this a lot of grease build up? For some reason the light in the pic reflecting off every drop makes it look way more than it is.



Third: All of my tires seem to be just a little more worn on the inside of the tread. Is this fairly normal, or do you think I need an alignment? Here's a pic on the worst.



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topgun
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 6:08 am    Post subject:  oil leak, CV joint & tire wear. Reply with quote

Oil leak -- does not look that bad in the pic. If u think it's the drain plug, next time u change oil, change the plug gasket.
CV joint -- There should not be any axle grease outside of the boot. But, again yours does not look that bad at this time. Maybe just keep an eye on it for now.
Tire wear -- Need an alignment. Is good for your car and cheaper than a set of tires. Cool

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Frank4202
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:06 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Check your rear valve cover for the oil leak

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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:29 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

All of our engines leak, its most likely your oil pan gasket, and on the 3400 unless you buy the special GM tool to remove the cross-main bolts, the only way to change it is to remove the engine. Laughing Unless its gushing oil or the trans is being pulled for a rebuild, I would NOT attempt to change it.

CV joints spray grease like that on just about every w-body out there. Unless the axle is clicking while turning, its fine and you can leave it alone until you're in there for suspension work.

I have a hunch that bad wheel bearings lead to leaking CV joints, lift up the front and wiggle each wheel at the top and bottom and see if there's any play. Let me know what you find, thanks!

How many miles are on the car? It may be due for an alignment, but if you have a ton of miles on the original suspension, you'll probably need new tie rods and maybe control arm mounts in order for the alignment to hold.

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barnettimpala
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:32 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I've got 95k miles on it now. Everything is stock. I've had it for 4 years and it's never been aligned and I'm pretty sure it wasn't before that. It makes a little noise while turning at slow speeds but I'm pretty sure its just the Iss. I'm planning on putting new struts and ssc springs on it fairly soon. I've got the springs already. It's been getting a little rougher ride and the struts are louder over big bumps. As for alignment, there's a place here where if you pay for the cost of basically two alignments, you have a lifetime with that car.

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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 2:42 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

barnettimpala wrote:
I've got 95k miles on it now. Everything is stock. I've had it for 4 years and it's never been aligned and I'm pretty sure it wasn't before that. It makes a little noise while turning at slow speeds but I'm pretty sure its just the Iss. I'm planning on putting new struts and ssc springs on it fairly soon. I've got the springs already. It's been getting a little rougher ride and the struts are louder over big bumps. As for alignment, there's a place here where if you pay for the cost of basically two alignments, you have a lifetime with that car.


If you're doing struts, then go ahead and replace or rebuild the control arms and you'll have an all-new front suspension. Replace the tie rod ends at the same time too.

For the axles, I use the "new" ones from O'Reilly's, they're about $60 a piece with lifetime warranty.

Check your wheel bearings like I said in the earlier post, new Timkems are about $90 on rockauto.com and would be easy to replace while everything is apart.

I learned my lesson during my suspension repairs/upgrades. Its a LOT easier to spend a few hundred bucks more up front and replace everything, than to only do a few parts at a time. You'll waste more time and energy, and new parts will increase the stress on older parts and make them wear out faster, so do as much as your wallet allows at once.

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barnettimpala
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 11:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Ok checked for bad wheel bearings like you said and neither wheel could move up or down, BUT the passenger wheel moves a little front to back Confused What's this? I don't know suspension or steering well. And I should do nothing about the cv boot?? I'd think I would want to figure out how to get the boot reattached, but I still havent figured out if the clamp is there and how I would do it.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 4:50 pm    Post subject:  oil leak, CV joint & tire wear. Reply with quote

It looks like the band is there in the pic. If it was gone I think there would be more grease thrown out.
Front to back tire movement, probably tie rod wear. Cool

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 10:42 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

So sounds like I need to replace the tie rod? Would it be smart to replace basically everything in the front like MISHNAH said, or would that be a waste to replace stuff that's still ok? What all is there to replace such as bushings, tie rods, struts, etc.

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Albert2kls
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:21 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Quote:
BUT the passenger wheel moves a little front to back What's this? I don't know suspension or steering well.


When you say front and back are you talking about from the front of the car to the back of the car or from the 3 and 9 oclock position with an in and out type motion? that will point us in the right direction...

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barnettimpala
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I mean when I grab at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, I can wiggle it some back and forth, not like front to back. If that makes sense? Like how it would be moving when steering, but the just a small wiggle and the driver's side doesn't do it.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:38 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

barnettimpala wrote:
I mean when I grab at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions, I can wiggle it some back and forth, not like front to back. If that makes sense? Like how it would be moving when steering, but the just a small wiggle and the driver's side doesn't do it.


Yep, makes perfect sense. As mentioned above its the tie rod, to narrow down which one you need to wiggle it as you are holding the tie rod.
When checking the outer, the one closest to the wheel, hold the top and bottom like a baseball and wiggle the tire, if the bottom is moving more then the top its the outer, there should be no play. So if there is no movement the move on to the inner.

To check the inner tie rod, grab the bar after the lock or jamb nut and pull to the outside twoard the wheel, wiggle the tire again, if the play is gone or you feel the tie rod moving the thats the bad one. Again there should be no play.

I do agree that you should replace the inner and outer at the same time since you will have to align the car anyway. But if money is a factor the fix whats broken and have it aligned.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:03 pm    Post subject:  oil leak, CV joint & tire wear. Reply with quote

If you're going to replace one tie rod you should do them both, cost is not that much and then you only need one alignment.
To find the bad one, wiggle the road wheel back and forth, holding the tire at the 9 and 3 positions, just enough to get the play in the road wheel but without moving the steering wheel. Maybe a second set of eyes to watch the steering wheel. Once you have it jacked up of course. Cool

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