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Need new radiator...need help.
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billy101
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 1:55 pm    Post subject:  Need new radiator...need help. Reply with quote

Hi guys, as many of you know I was in a front end collision, which damaged the radiator and the condenser. Both have been working perfectly fine up until two days ago...the radiator had a small drip ever since the accident, but it now seems to be a bigger leak. Need a new radiator now. My question is, I know the tranny lines go into the radiator right? Is there any special procedure to change out the radiator? Is there a special one I need to buy?
Rockauto.com shows like 5-6 different radiators and I'm not sure which one I need...help?

I have a '01 LS 3.8.

Thanks guys
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tiltrotor22
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject:  This Reply with quote

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the stock part number for your radiator is 89018542 unless you have the VEHICLE W/BEVEL WASHER ATTACHED TO TRANS OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING) then the part number is 89018543.

The description is for the 89018542 is: RADIATOR,(CORE SIZE 30 5/16 X 15 X 5/8)(CODE CKR,LAN)(SENSOR HOLE MAY NEED TO BE DRILLED OUT)(ACDelco #21560)

The description is for the 89018543 is: RADIATOR,(CORE SIZE 30 5/16 X 15 X 13/16)(CODE MBR,SJB)(ACDelco #21549)(USED ON VEHICLES W/BEVEL WASHER ATTACHED TO TRANS OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING)

This can be found on compnine.com, the link to the exact page is :
http://www.compnine.com/index......rouptype=B

I hope this helps. Someone who knows more about '00 - '05 let me know if this is wrong as I usually deal with '06+.
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:40 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Do what I did:

Go to www.advanceautoparts.com and add either the Ready-Rad or Delphi radiator to you cart. Then enter coupon code VISA at the bottom, it'll take $50 off $150 Very Happy Comes out to a little over $100 for the Ready-Rad radiator and you can select to pick it up at a local store.

The Delphi unit is $20 more which is probably worth it, but the cheaper chinese unit is in stock at most stores and I didnt want to wait a few days for the Delphi to ship.

Its a good radiator, the plastic tanks dont look as sturdy as the OEM unit, but it has a lifetime warranty. Works fine for me. Laughing

To remove the trans fluid lines, slide the small plastic clip back, then use a small screwdriver to remove the metal U-ring. Then you can just pull the lines out. Make sure to have a pan under the car, they will leak some fluid. The new radiator will come with new rings, just push the lines on until you hear a click, then slide the plastic protector back on.

To remove the radiator, you'll need to drain the rad, then remove the upper dogbone mounts completely from the radiator support, remove the upper radiator hose, then disconnect the wiring harness from the fans and level sensor. You'll have to undo all the clips that hold the harness to the fan assembly with a flat screwdriver.

Then remove the upper radiator mounts, overflow hose, and the 2 bolts that hold the fan assembly to the radiator. There is also a small plastic clip that holds the fans to the radiator in the center at the bottom, you'll have to reach it from below.

Lift the fans out, then remove the trans lines like I said above and the lower coolant hose. Then just lift the radiator out.

_________________
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2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
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Last edited by MISHNAH on Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:44 pm; edited 2 times in total
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billy101
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:41 pm    Post subject:  Re: This Reply with quote

tiltrotor22 wrote:
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the stock part number for your radiator is 89018542 unless you have the VEHICLE W/BEVEL WASHER ATTACHED TO TRANS OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING) then the part number is 89018543.

The description is for the 89018542 is: RADIATOR,(CORE SIZE 30 5/16 X 15 X 5/8)(CODE CKR,LAN)(SENSOR HOLE MAY NEED TO BE DRILLED OUT)(ACDelco #21560)

The description is for the 89018543 is: RADIATOR,(CORE SIZE 30 5/16 X 15 X 13/16)(CODE MBR,SJB)(ACDelco #21549)(USED ON VEHICLES W/BEVEL WASHER ATTACHED TO TRANS OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING)

This can be found on compnine.com, the link to the exact page is :
http://www.compnine.com/index......rouptype=B

I hope this helps. Someone who knows more about '00 - '05 let me know if this is wrong as I usually deal with '06+.


How do I know if I have the quick connect fittings?
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 2:47 pm    Post subject:  Re: This Reply with quote

billy101 wrote:
tiltrotor22 wrote:
Someone correct me if I am wrong, but the stock part number for your radiator is 89018542 unless you have the VEHICLE W/BEVEL WASHER ATTACHED TO TRANS OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING) then the part number is 89018543.

The description is for the 89018542 is: RADIATOR,(CORE SIZE 30 5/16 X 15 X 5/8)(CODE CKR,LAN)(SENSOR HOLE MAY NEED TO BE DRILLED OUT)(ACDelco #21560)

The description is for the 89018543 is: RADIATOR,(CORE SIZE 30 5/16 X 15 X 13/16)(CODE MBR,SJB)(ACDelco #21549)(USED ON VEHICLES W/BEVEL WASHER ATTACHED TO TRANS OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING)

This can be found on compnine.com, the link to the exact page is :
http://www.compnine.com/index......rouptype=B

I hope this helps. Someone who knows more about '00 - '05 let me know if this is wrong as I usually deal with '06+.


How do I know if I have the quick connect fittings?


They're the same, just that the 43 is the "heavy duty" version.

Both have the same type of trans line connection, all Impala's of the same year used the same rad except for 9C1 models.

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2002 Galaxy Silver Sedan - LS cluster - Debadged - Intrigue compass/autodim mirror - DIC - Regal graphite leather seats - LS console with floor shift conversion - Monte Carlo black leather steering wheel - LS springs - KYB GR-2 Struts - GMPP sway bars and rear STB - Fog light frontend harness - LS Bumper with fog lights - Painted trim and side skirts

2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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Domo
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 3:00 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH instructions are pretty much correct. Also used this for reference: http://www.naioa.com/v2/module.....mp;t=31404

Changing it out is actually REALLY easy to do... I did it myself when my radiator leak got worse. the only thing i kinda ran into that was a headache was the Hose Clips for the trans lines. they are easier to get to from up under the car than from above... but make sure u remember how everything goes back.. OH and Bleed the air out of the system when your adding Coolant back in!

I Personally left the fans connected to the radiator when i lifted it out, and then put the fans on the new radiator and put them all back in together...
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 4:26 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick replies everyone! And thank you very much for the instructions MISHNAH, along with the checkout coupon! I'll take a look into that!

Do you guys put the coolant tabs in when you put new coolant in?


While I'm in there I should probably change out the condenser cause that was bent a bit during the accident...but the a/c still works.

Is there a condenser people recommend as well? What else should I change once I change the condenser?
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 5:44 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

billy101 wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies everyone! And thank you very much for the instructions MISHNAH, along with the checkout coupon! I'll take a look into that!

Do you guys put the coolant tabs in when you put new coolant in?


While I'm in there I should probably change out the condenser cause that was bent a bit during the accident...but the a/c still works.

Is there a condenser people recommend as well? What else should I change once I change the condenser?


No, just fill with regular coolant and water.

How bad is the damage to the condenser? Post a pic.

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2002 Galaxy Silver Sedan - LS cluster - Debadged - Intrigue compass/autodim mirror - DIC - Regal graphite leather seats - LS console with floor shift conversion - Monte Carlo black leather steering wheel - LS springs - KYB GR-2 Struts - GMPP sway bars and rear STB - Fog light frontend harness - LS Bumper with fog lights - Painted trim and side skirts

2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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billy101
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:04 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:
billy101 wrote:
Thanks for the quick replies everyone! And thank you very much for the instructions MISHNAH, along with the checkout coupon! I'll take a look into that!

Do you guys put the coolant tabs in when you put new coolant in?


While I'm in there I should probably change out the condenser cause that was bent a bit during the accident...but the a/c still works.

Is there a condenser people recommend as well? What else should I change once I change the condenser?


No, just fill with regular coolant and water.

How bad is the damage to the condenser? Post a pic.


Not sure, going off what my dad said. "Twisted like a pretzel." Where is the condenser located? Before the radiator or after? I'll go out now and get some pics.

Here a pic from the front. Couldn't see anything from behind...
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:25 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Yeah, thats the condenser, and its pretty messed up. The radiator is behind the condenser.

As for the condenser, all the parts stores have them for around $150. O'Reilly and Advance can also order the OEM Delphi unit and you'll get it in a few days.

They also carry the generic condenser, part number 2208, BUT you MUST make sure thats its a dual-pass condenser similar to the original unit in the box!!! I ordered one from Advance and the factory had substituted a serpentine style condenser in the box. Rolling Eyes It should have 2 rows on tubes within the fins. I've seen other 2208's that were dual-pass like the original, and my dealer AC Delco condenser wound up being the generic model too. Laughing

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2002 Galaxy Silver Sedan - LS cluster - Debadged - Intrigue compass/autodim mirror - DIC - Regal graphite leather seats - LS console with floor shift conversion - Monte Carlo black leather steering wheel - LS springs - KYB GR-2 Struts - GMPP sway bars and rear STB - Fog light frontend harness - LS Bumper with fog lights - Painted trim and side skirts

2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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billy101
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:07 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:
Yeah, thats the condenser, and its pretty messed up. The radiator is behind the condenser.

As for the condenser, all the parts stores have them for around $150. O'Reilly and Advance can also order the OEM Delphi unit and you'll get it in a few days.

They also carry the generic condenser, part number 2208, BUT you MUST make sure thats its a dual-pass condenser similar to the original unit in the box!!! I ordered one from Advance and the factory had substituted a serpentine style condenser in the box. Rolling Eyes It should have 2 rows on tubes within the fins. I've seen other 2208's that were dual-pass like the original, and my dealer AC Delco condenser wound up being the generic model too. Laughing


Okay, so I'll order a condenser and a radiator.

I'm not going to cheap out and get the Visteon #2208, I'll spend the extra $20 and get the Delphi unit.

What else should be replaced when we change out the condenser? I've heard about changing out the AC Receiver/drier along with the orifice tube, which i've also heard is particularly hard (the orifice tube) to change on the 3.8 with the cruise control and everything over there in the way...?
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 12:43 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

billy101 wrote:
MISHNAH wrote:
Yeah, thats the condenser, and its pretty messed up. The radiator is behind the condenser.

As for the condenser, all the parts stores have them for around $150. O'Reilly and Advance can also order the OEM Delphi unit and you'll get it in a few days.

They also carry the generic condenser, part number 2208, BUT you MUST make sure thats its a dual-pass condenser similar to the original unit in the box!!! I ordered one from Advance and the factory had substituted a serpentine style condenser in the box. Rolling Eyes It should have 2 rows on tubes within the fins. I've seen other 2208's that were dual-pass like the original, and my dealer AC Delco condenser wound up being the generic model too. Laughing


Okay, so I'll order a condenser and a radiator.

I'm not going to cheap out and get the Visteon #2208, I'll spend the extra $20 and get the Delphi unit.

What else should be replaced when we change out the condenser? I've heard about changing out the AC Receiver/drier along with the orifice tube, which i've also heard is particularly hard (the orifice tube) to change on the 3.8 with the cruise control and everything over there in the way...?


Dont forget to use the 50 off 150 coupon Laughing

Yes, you do need to replace the drier, its a $30 part so its cheap. You'll need some PAG-150 oil to fill it with the same amount of oil drained from the old one. The orifice tube is $5, and if you decide to replace it you'll also need the O-ring kit, about $12. Go to www.slickdeals.net and search for advance auto coupons, I got all of the above parts there and saved $10-15 I think. Very Happy

The orifice tube is a pain, but if you remove the cruise module, then unbolt the master cylinder and ABS pump from the shock tower, you should be able to pull them far enough to slide the a/c line out between the master cylinder and brake booster. Removing the brake booster makes it much easier and isnt very hard, the hardest part is removing the damn clip that holds the brake pedal on.

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2002 Galaxy Silver Sedan - LS cluster - Debadged - Intrigue compass/autodim mirror - DIC - Regal graphite leather seats - LS console with floor shift conversion - Monte Carlo black leather steering wheel - LS springs - KYB GR-2 Struts - GMPP sway bars and rear STB - Fog light frontend harness - LS Bumper with fog lights - Painted trim and side skirts

2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:02 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:
billy101 wrote:
MISHNAH wrote:
Yeah, thats the condenser, and its pretty messed up. The radiator is behind the condenser.

As for the condenser, all the parts stores have them for around $150. O'Reilly and Advance can also order the OEM Delphi unit and you'll get it in a few days.

They also carry the generic condenser, part number 2208, BUT you MUST make sure thats its a dual-pass condenser similar to the original unit in the box!!! I ordered one from Advance and the factory had substituted a serpentine style condenser in the box. Rolling Eyes It should have 2 rows on tubes within the fins. I've seen other 2208's that were dual-pass like the original, and my dealer AC Delco condenser wound up being the generic model too. Laughing


Okay, so I'll order a condenser and a radiator.

I'm not going to cheap out and get the Visteon #2208, I'll spend the extra $20 and get the Delphi unit.

What else should be replaced when we change out the condenser? I've heard about changing out the AC Receiver/drier along with the orifice tube, which i've also heard is particularly hard (the orifice tube) to change on the 3.8 with the cruise control and everything over there in the way...?


Dont forget to use the 50 off 150 coupon Laughing

Yes, you do need to replace the drier, its a $30 part so its cheap. You'll need some PAG-150 oil to fill it with the same amount of oil drained from the old one. The orifice tube is $5, and if you decide to replace it you'll also need the O-ring kit, about $12. Go to www.slickdeals.net and search for advance auto coupons, I got all of the above parts there and saved $10-15 I think. Very Happy

The orifice tube is a pain, but if you remove the cruise module, then unbolt the master cylinder and ABS pump from the shock tower, you should be able to pull them far enough to slide the a/c line out between the master cylinder and brake booster. Removing the brake booster makes it much easier and isnt very hard, the hardest part is removing the damn clip that holds the brake pedal on.


Is it necessary to change the orifice tube? I've never had a problem with the airconditioning...it's actually still working perfectly now. I priced it out, and if I apply the coupon "VISA" with the condenser and radiator in at the same time and it was $248, not bad...but if I put them in separately, the total is $211. SCORE! I'll also get the new accumulator.

How do I get the system evacuated? My dad will probably know this but I'm up on Long Island until Sunday and he's going to take the radiator and condenser out when I'm up here..
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:00 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Yeah, you have to split up your orders to maximize the coupons Laughing You can probably get away with leaving the original orifice tube in, but definitely replace the drier.

Has the refrigerant leaked out? If its still charged, then you should take the car to an a/c shop and have it evacuated.

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2002 Galaxy Silver Sedan - LS cluster - Debadged - Intrigue compass/autodim mirror - DIC - Regal graphite leather seats - LS console with floor shift conversion - Monte Carlo black leather steering wheel - LS springs - KYB GR-2 Struts - GMPP sway bars and rear STB - Fog light frontend harness - LS Bumper with fog lights - Painted trim and side skirts

2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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billy101
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:00 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:
Yeah, you have to split up your orders to maximize the coupons Laughing You can probably get away with leaving the original orifice tube in, but definitely replace the drier.

Has the refrigerant leaked out? If its still charged, then you should take the car to an a/c shop and have it evacuated.


I'm under the assumption that none has leaked out because it's been 100 degrees the last couple days here and it gets so cold in the car I actually have to turn the fan DOWN.....so it's still working perfectly and great as it has been the last 12 years...
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