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How many miles before the computer resets?
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50 miles
500 miles
0%
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Until I buy a toyota
100%
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2001Ls
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:01 pm    Post subject:  How many miles before the computer resets? Reply with quote

Anybody know how many miles of driving until the computer will bring the Check Engine Light and other indicators back on after disconnecting the battery in order to clear them? I disconnected the battery for 20 mins last night, codes and error message went away, but now my mechanic says he wants to see the light before he replaces things. Anybody know? Thank you!

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IffyG
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:04 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Depends on what the fault was. Most of them will trigger the light after it detects the fault on two consecutive start ups.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:23 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I'm having the abs problem, grinding noise on braking and slow turns (abs light, service traction mesage)

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:26 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

If your mechanic needs to see a code to fix a wheel hub, you need a new mechanic. Granted it could be another issue, but it's more than likely a bad wheel speed sensor and/or the hub is grinding on itself...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
If your mechanic needs to see a code to fix a wheel hub, you need a new mechanic. Granted it could be another issue, but it's more than likely a bad wheel speed sensor and/or the hub is grinding on itself...


Why would you say that? The ABS code will at least direct him to the correct corner of the car instead of blindly throwing parts in all directions.

And ABS codes should light off pretty quick. When my wheel sensor went bad it would turn the light on about 50 feet out of my driveway. It's the IM monitors for the emissions systems that can take a couple days or several drive cycles to all reset and report.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:38 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

What makes me say that is I'm f'n tired of mechanics that can't figure out their ass from a hole in the ground without a car throwing a code...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:40 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Dunno. I'll let you take my car in if you want - the ABS and Trac Off lights come on either as soon as the car starts, or within 10 minutes of starting the car. Laughing

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

DennisW wrote:

Why would you say that? The ABS code will at least direct him to the correct corner of the car instead of blindly throwing parts in all directions.


Stop going to Meineke.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

2001Ls wrote:
I'm having the abs problem, grinding noise on braking and slow turns (abs light, service traction mesage)


Check Engine light will NOT come on for an ABS fault, the ABS warning light will. An ABS sensor fault will turn the light on immediately, so if yours is on your mechanic can read that but he will need a scan tool that can read ABS codes. A lot of the less expensive OBD-II scanners will only communicate with the Powertrain computer, but some companies like Actron are now selling ones that can also read ABS codes for a reasonable price.
You might stop into a local Advance Auto or the equivalent in your area and ask if they have a scanner that they can put on your car that will read the ABS system. IF so the codes will tell you what end of the car the fault lies in.

If your mechanic is telling you he needs to wait until the check engine light comes back on and not the ABS light, then I will agree.....run like hell
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:24 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
What makes me say that is I'm f'n tired of mechanics that can't figure out their ass from a hole in the ground without a car throwing a code...


Back in the day, cars were 99% mechanical, so you could diagnose damn near everything by a noise, vibration, looseness or leak.

Nowadays, 99% of a car is electronic, so you pretty much need a machine to tell you where the problem is, since electricity is kinda hard to see with the naked eye. Laughing

Quite a few people here have had ABS codes due to bad hubs or bad wiring, the ABS module checks everything continuously so it knows whats wrong at all times. Good luck trying to find a bad wire that is only bad when you hit a hard-enough bump. Laughing

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:38 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

MISHNAH wrote:
IffyG wrote:
What makes me say that is I'm f'n tired of mechanics that can't figure out their ass from a hole in the ground without a car throwing a code...


Back in the day, cars were 99% mechanical, so you could diagnose damn near everything by a noise, vibration, looseness or leak.

Nowadays, 99% of a car is electronic, so you pretty much need a machine to tell you where the problem is, since electricity is kinda hard to see with the naked eye. Laughing


Man invented wiring schematics and multimeters for diagnosing electrical problems. If a customer shows up with a discrete set of symptoms, a competent mechanic should be able to narrow down the issue to a few systems and test from there. Honestly, I think the problem is lazy mechanics use the no code excuse as a way to weasel out of doing some proper troubleshooting.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:18 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
MISHNAH wrote:
IffyG wrote:
What makes me say that is I'm f'n tired of mechanics that can't figure out their ass from a hole in the ground without a car throwing a code...


Back in the day, cars were 99% mechanical, so you could diagnose damn near everything by a noise, vibration, looseness or leak.

Nowadays, 99% of a car is electronic, so you pretty much need a machine to tell you where the problem is, since electricity is kinda hard to see with the naked eye. Laughing


Man invented wiring schematics and multimeters for diagnosing electrical problems. If a customer shows up with a discrete set of symptoms, a competent mechanic should be able to narrow down the issue to a few systems and test from there. Honestly, I think the problem is lazy mechanics use the no code excuse as a way to weasel out of doing some proper troubleshooting.


Ok, this borders on beating a dead horse Beat Dead Horse

But bear with me for just a moment here......

You're a mechanic, A customer comes to you with their ABS light on.

Where do you start?

It could be a wheel sensor, a wiring harness, the ABS computer, or the controller, and in any of those multiple possibilities.

Would you just start throwing parts at the problem, not even knowing for sure which wheel or component to start replacing.?

Or.......

Would you at least put a scan tool on the car to find out from those codes that it will give you where to start looking for the problem? Which wheel, or component of the system is the code coming from?

By not being "lazy" and using the scan tool, you're going to be spending a ton of time and your customer's money just tossing part after part at the problem until (hopefully) you get lucky and eventually replace the right part......if the customer's wallet can hold out long enough.

Better yet, imagine yourself as that customer, watching a mechanic who didn't want to do it the "lazy" way, tossing parts at your car's problem and still not getting it right?

The point that older cars were mostly all mechanical and didn't use sophisticated computer and electronics systems for just about every function is well stated. Diagnosis was a much simpler task, and there were fewer variables to sort thru. Today's cars are almost rolling computers, and you simply can't work effectively and efficiently on them without the proper tools and knowledge.

Yes, there are lazy mechanics that can't think beyond the scan tool, but they would suck at any kind of repair. Lumping anyone who relies on the proper tools and procedures to diagnose and repair modern automobiles into a group of "lazy" mechanics is just not true.

And on that note, let's put this one to rest. I think we've all stated our opinions fairly well here. Soap Box

To the OP, I think enough advice has been given to you to get you on the way to having your car properly repaired. Good Luck!.
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:48 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

mechanic says bad right speed sensor and speed sensor harness. Wants $711 for the job with parts. I feel like im getting pounded from behind Sad

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:00 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Alright I'll quite arguing in this thread, but I'm certain I can't be the only one that's fed up with mechanics that plug in a scan tool, don't do any other diagnostic work, don't see any codes and call a car good even when there are serious issues present.

2001Ls wrote:
mechanic says bad right speed sensor and speed sensor harness. Wants $711 for the job with parts. I feel like im getting pounded from behind Sad


Did he say what happened to it that it needs both. Sounds a bit fishy to me (unless the hub is badly shot and the wiring harness is broken). Either way, when I was looking at getting my two front hubs replaced by a shop in Nashville, I was quoted between 800 (Sears, would never actually use them though) and 1400 (at the dealer).

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:23 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

He said he wanted $711 to replace one speed sensor and one wire harness, I just bought the Dorman Wire harness from autozone for $45. I will bring it back to him to replace the wire harness only and see if that fixes the problem. How much $ in labor do you think to replace the one harness? From the look of the harness on teh autozone website there is some splicing involved. I was thinking one hour so apporx $60 in labor. Thoughts?

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