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Aftermarket amp issues/questions

 
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ZephyrFox
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2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo


PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject:  Aftermarket amp issues/questions Reply with quote

I have an 04 Dale Jr Monte with a Viper alarm & remote start installed as well as an aftermarket amp powering a sub box. Still have the stock head unit. A couple weeks ago, speakers started randomly crackling, kinda like if you were to rake a live speaker wire over a speaker connection. I thought maybe something had worked loose or there was water bridging something. I took apart the dash and checked the amp in the back and all the fuses but everything appeared to be fine. I put everything back together and the crackling was still present.

A few days after this, I get no sound from the stock system. Radio appears to operate normally and my subs still produce sound. My multimeter shows signal getting back to the factory amp, but nothing coming out. I run speaker wire from the sub amp to one of the rear speakers to test them and they are still working. I figure, ok, problem solved, factory amp is fried. I had an older 4 channel amp lying around so I figure I'll just toss that in.

I google around and find the wiring diagram in a post on this forum and hook everything up. Everything is back to normal except for a few things:

1.) I used the speaker level inputs on the new amp. My door/alarm chime is now louder than a banshee out of hell. I nearly crapped myself when I started my car after hooking everything back up. Short of just snipping it out, anyone have any ideas on what to do? I'd like to keep the chime but at a much more reasonable volume level.

2.) I've lost my remote start functionality. Remote door and truck unlock work normally. Alarm and all sensors that should trigger it work normally. During remote start, the car appears (at least electrically) to attempt to start the car but the engine doesn't even attempt to start. Starting with the key works normally. I know this occurred after I disconnected the factory amp- I'm lazy and was remote starting from the trunk while testing the factory amp and speakers. Any ideas on what could have caused this? Possibly related to #3 below.

3.) After connecting everything for the replacement amp, I'm left with 5 wires in the harness that don't connect to anything. It has been a long, long while since I've done any car audio work and I'm not entirely sure what they are for and whether they are necessary.



The wires in question are labeled A1, A3, B1, B3 and B5 in the above image. I *think* the A1-A3 and B1-B3 pairs are for RAP to the speaker system (which I have lost since the amp swap- no biggie) but I'm not sure and wonder if disconnecting those would affect my Onstar system or perhaps have caused the issues with my remote start. I'm concerned about the B5 wire since "Antenna Enable Signal" would lead me to believe this wire should be a switched power wire but testing it showed it to be a constant power wire. Do I have the right idea about what these extra wires do or am I totally off base?

Thanks for any insights!
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bbengineer
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2004 Chevrolet Impala
1998 Chevrolet Corvette
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe
2008 Subaru Impreza
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle


PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 3:48 pm    Post subject:  Re: Aftermarket amp issues/questions Reply with quote

ZephyrFox wrote:

1.) I used the speaker level inputs on the new amp. My door/alarm chime is now louder than a banshee out of hell. I nearly crapped myself when I started my car after hooking everything back up. Short of just snipping it out, anyone have any ideas on what to do? I'd like to keep the chime but at a much more reasonable volume level.


Loud chimes are a side effect of using the speaker level inputs... I would bet if you used a factory amp integration harness (PAC AOEM-GM24), this wouldn't be an issue

Not sure what you are going to "snip out", but there is nothing you can remove to disable the chimes.. except for removing the factory head unit itself

Quote:

2.) I've lost my remote start functionality. Remote door and truck unlock work normally. Alarm and all sensors that should trigger it work normally. During remote start, the car appears (at least electrically) to attempt to start the car but the engine doesn't even attempt to start. Starting with the key works normally. I know this occurred after I disconnected the factory amp- I'm lazy and was remote starting from the trunk while testing the factory amp and speakers. Any ideas on what could have caused this? Possibly related to #3 below.


Sounds like the Passlock bypass module is not working correctly or is disconnected. What brand of alarm is it and who installed it?

Quote:

3.) After connecting everything for the replacement amp, I'm left with 5 wires in the harness that don't connect to anything. It has been a long, long while since I've done any car audio work and I'm not entirely sure what they are for and whether they are necessary.

The wires in question are labeled A1, A3, B1, B3 and B5 in the above image. I *think* the A1-A3 and B1-B3 pairs are for RAP to the speaker system (which I have lost since the amp swap- no biggie) but I'm not sure and wonder if disconnecting those would affect my Onstar system or perhaps have caused the issues with my remote start. I'm concerned about the B5 wire since "Antenna Enable Signal" would lead me to believe this wire should be a switched power wire but testing it showed it to be a constant power wire. Do I have the right idea about what these extra wires do or am I totally off base?


A1, A3, B3, and B5 are the constant power and ground wires for the amp. B5 is the amp turn-on (and antenna module enable) lead which is hot when the factory radio turns on


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ZephyrFox
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2004 Chevrolet Monte Carlo


PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:14 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I thought the door chime was a separate module from the stereo. I didn't see that PAC adapter when I searched, would have saved me an afternoon of splicing.

It's a Viper 791XV, installed by Best Buy about 5 years ago. I don't think it would have anything to do with the factory amp but as soon as the amp was disconnected, it wouldn't remote start anymore. I gave them a buzz yesterday and they said that nothing in the schematics they use would hook up to the factory amp.

That B5 is showing constant power for me. Using my DMM, positive lead to B5, negative to B1 is showing around 14V regardless of whether the car is on, off or on RAP. I'm wondering if that is what caused the amp to blow. We had quite a few storms the last couple weeks, which is why I had mentioned water bridging something.

You don't happen to know how that antenna wire is routed through the car do you? Straight through the center? I'd like to take a look at it but it's starting to sound like there are much more significant electrical issues than I'm capable of repairing myself.

Thanks for your help.
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bbengineer
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2004 Chevrolet Impala
1998 Chevrolet Corvette
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe
2008 Subaru Impreza
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle


PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:20 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

ZephyrFox wrote:
I thought the door chime was a separate module from the stereo. I didn't see that PAC adapter when I searched, would have saved me an afternoon of splicing.


Door chime is only separate if you are using an aftermarket radio... it's built into the factory radio (hence the separate module when going aftermarket)

http://www.google.com/products.....CC0Q8wIwAA

Quote:

It's a Viper 791XV, installed by Best Buy about 5 years ago. I don't think it would have anything to do with the factory amp but as soon as the amp was disconnected, it wouldn't remote start anymore. I gave them a buzz yesterday and they said that nothing in the schematics they use would hook up to the factory amp.


It may be coincidence that it happened when you pulled the radio... did you check the factory fuses.. who knows what they tapped into

Quote:

That B5 is showing constant power for me. Using my DMM, positive lead to B5, negative to B1 is showing around 14V regardless of whether the car is on, off or on RAP. I'm wondering if that is what caused the amp to blow. We had quite a few storms the last couple weeks, which is why I had mentioned water bridging something.


Pretty common problem... the radio doesn't remove the enable signal and causes the amp to stay on draining the battery...

Quote:

You don't happen to know how that antenna wire is routed through the car do you? Straight through the center? I'd like to take a look at it but it's starting to sound like there are much more significant electrical issues than I'm capable of repairing myself.


I doubt it's wiring....but I believe it runs down the passenger side of the car under the carpet...

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