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Trac Off and BRAKE lights..

 
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00impala123
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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 11:36 pm    Post subject:  Trac Off and BRAKE lights.. Reply with quote

So starting yesterday, If I go WOT from a stop. (where the car launches hard unlike it would from a roll) My trac off and e-brake light pop on. If I continue driving they will shut off.

Just wondering what to look at. I checked fuses to see if something was loose, everything is fine. Also checked the harnesses and wires at the wheels to see if it was loose and it seems fine. I only did a quick jack up and glance to see if there was anything obvious at the wheels but so far nothing.

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ad0726
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 1:18 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Probably a faulty hub bearing. Did the "Service traction system" message appeared?
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XXWoodmanXX
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 5:43 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I would pose the same possibility, however I replaced both hub bearings( along with tie rod ends) and had an alignment, and the light is still on in my car. Does something need reset?
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gdoggy
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 7:57 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Check your brake fluid level
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jw319901
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 9:17 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

gdoggy wrote:
Check your brake fluid level


x2 I had a similair situation, where I gunned it around a curve and that happened, I topped off the master cylinder and it never happened again. If it continues to happen it is most likely a hub.

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chibiblacksheep
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 10:27 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Hub shouldn't ever make the BRAKE light come up, just the ABS and Trac Off

Fluid is the most likely cause. Are your brakes starting to wear down? This is usually a good indicator that the pads are starting to wear and travel more.

I always have a bottle of dot 3 in the trunk, happened to me once, pulled over topped it off and never came back... replaced the brakes the next month.

Remember to wipe the brake fluid cap before putting it back on, don't want any dirt to fall in.


Also, why are you going WOT from a dead stop with your traction control on in the first place?

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00impala123
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 6:35 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

On my way home from work right now I noticed that the lights only go off after applying the brake again. I'll check fluid levels and see what happens.

And chibiblacksheep- It doesn't have to be a dead stop (I noticed today) as long as its a roll under about 10 mph. The reason I didnt turn the trac system off was because my trac system button is broken and I haven't gotten around to replacing it yet. (it doesn't click when you push it it, so it is useless) Laughing

and @ ad- the service trac system did not come on. Could be a hub that was my first thought after the wires, but I'll be checking fluid level first since thats easy and free since I have the fluid in the garage.

I'm due for brakes pretty soon so I'll probably just upgrade in the next couple weeks Very Happy

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7801MonteMan
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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 1:40 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

chibiblacksheep wrote:
Hub shouldn't ever make the BRAKE light come up, just the ABS and Trac Off

Fluid is the most likely cause. Are your brakes starting to wear down? This is usually a good indicator that the pads are starting to wear and travel more.

I always have a bottle of dot 3 in the trunk, happened to me once, pulled over topped it off and never came back... replaced the brakes the next month.

Remember to wipe the brake fluid cap before putting it back on, don't want any dirt to fall in.


Also, why are you going WOT from a dead stop with your traction control on in the first place?


Hub shouldn't cause the BRAKE light to come on, but it does. I had the same issue and same symptoms and I already knew I had a bad bearing. But I checked the fluid and it was fine. Changed the bearing all my lights went off on start up and haven't had an issue yet.
So I agree 110% that your problem is the hub bearing!

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00impala123
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PostPosted: Wed May 12, 2010 6:12 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

7801MonteMan wrote:

So I agree 110% that your problem is the hub bearing!


Fluid was low, so I filled it and it's been fine so far today Laughing
Could be a bad bearing as well, Im gonna do pads, rotors, and paint cal.s next week so I'll check it out then

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chibiblacksheep
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 10:09 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Since your brakes are about to be gone, fluid being low is very common.

Just keep an eye on how much fluid you have when you compress and put the new pads on.

Glad it was a simple fix for those idiot lights.

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Baywing
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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2010 10:23 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

When I had the brake fluid changed at the dealer last month, they told me the rear pads were shot (they really weren't, had about 100K on them and they looked good for another 25K at least.) Since I was going to replace the pads myself, I asked him to keep the fluid level down a little in the reservoir. He said OK, but warned me that the brake light might come on if I did any sudden starts, stops or fast corners. Was never an issue, but good to know.
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XXWoodmanXX
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PostPosted: Sat May 15, 2010 1:43 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IIRC, these W bodies have a 80/20 brake bias (ir is it 75/25?) , but that's still ALOT of miles on one set of pads. Were they stock?
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Baywing
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PostPosted: Sun May 16, 2010 6:50 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

[quote="XXWoodmanXX"]IIRC, these W bodies have a 80/20 brake bias (ir is it 75/25?) , but that's still ALOT of miles on one set of pads. Were they stock?[/quote]
The rears were ceramics and I'm very used to getting at least 100K from front brakes and more from the rears. My 1992 K5 Blazer (the big one) had 98K when I traded it in years ago and the fronts were just starting to get down. I mentioned it to the dealer so they would check and replace before they sold it. A few days later he called and thanked me, the fronts did need replacement. he said the backs were fine and that I must have just replaced them. Nope, they were original, 98K and the mechanic said they looked like new.
I do a lot of highway driving and drive my vehicles like a semi, anticipate and look ahead blocks or miles.
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