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Coolant elbow replacement question....
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J-POP
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:08 pm    Post subject: Question Coolant elbow replacement question.... Reply with quote

Hi, looks like I lucked out for now w/ my 3800 2002 Imp. The leak is coming from the coolant elbow that I can see (i assume it's the top). I wil try to tackle it this weekend.
I have a couple of questions: Is the bottom elbow simply under the tensioner? should I change this one as well? I was just gonna back the tensioner ot enough without complete removal. And lastly, is there a set of elbows that are better than the others??
Thanks

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Frank
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 8:52 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

The bottom elbow is on the bottom front side of the tensioner and runs from the tensioner to the water pump.

I used the Dorman elbows the last time I changed mine, making sure I got the surfaces clean and lubricated the new o-rings with coolant before I put them in...and the top one leaks. My opinion is to go with the GM ones.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:07 pm    Post subject:  ok Reply with quote

yes replace both elbows. I did both of mine and also get new orings for the coolant pipes that go into the tensioner for the heater hoses as well

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:45 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

http://www.naioa.com/v2/module.....mp;t=17376

Have fun.

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Start them out right...
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 10:30 pm    Post subject:  ok Reply with quote

good tip jayme but it is fairly easy to do

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:55 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Jayme wrote:
http://www.naioa.com/v2/module.....mp;t=17376

Have fun.

No write up about the coolant elbow on the dirty four hunneds?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 12:51 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

sh8dybizness wrote:
Jayme wrote:
http://www.naioa.com/v2/module.....mp;t=17376

Have fun.

No write up about the coolant elbow on the dirty four hunneds?


There is no coolant elbow on the 3400.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:46 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Nice writeup Jayme. Thanks. I looked but never came across it. Will new elbow come w/ o-rings? Should I go w/ GM? I thought there was another option here?

Also how long does it take? Inserting the elbows corrextly looks like a pita. Mad

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 1:52 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

J-POP wrote:
Will new elbow come w/ o-rings?


Yes.

J-POP wrote:
Should I go w/ GM?


You can, but the Dorman parts work just fine.

J-POP wrote:
I thought there was another option here?


See above.

J-POP wrote:
Also how long does it take?


For someone experienced with working with tools, an hour. Two for others.

J-POP wrote:
Inserting the elbows corrextly looks like a pita. Mad


It's not bad.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2009 4:42 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Sabrewings wrote:
sh8dybizness wrote:
Jayme wrote:
http://www.naioa.com/v2/module.....mp;t=17376

Have fun.

No write up about the coolant elbow on the dirty four hunneds?


There is no coolant elbow on the 3400.


Good, one less thing to worry about! Smile

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 3:59 pm    Post subject:  Re: ok Reply with quote

riverwalk100 wrote:
yes replace both elbows. I did both of mine and also get new orings for the coolant pipes that go into the tensioner for the heater hoses as well


Could you expand on the other o-rings for the coolant pipes and heater hoses?
These are different from the o-rings in the new elbows? If so what size? Question May as well do it as I'm in there! Anything else to do while I have this stuff put aside?

Just bought GM replacements yesterday. At ythe desk I inquired about their $ as the on-line form was cheaper. He gave them to me for $9.19 (list $20.91) and $2.79 (list $7.49)= $13.06 Very Happy

P.S. One more ?: A tech friend on a nother board suggested removing the rad cap 1 click to release some pressure and lessen the coolant loss. Any reason this could be bad???

Thanks!!

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wanderson75
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 4:03 pm    Post subject:  Re: ok Reply with quote

J-POP wrote:

P.S. One more ?: A tech friend on a nother board suggested removing the rad cap 1 click to release some pressure and lessen the coolant loss. Any reason this could be bad???

Thanks!!


Pressure, plus heat = third degree burns. Just park it, throw the hood open for about 30 and you'll be good to go.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2009 5:52 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

No, I din't mean that, LOL I meant during driving to lessen pressure. I only ask 'vause sometimes the simple stuff like this dominos other things, like the pcu senses lower pressure and tries to "fix" it or something...


These pics are i response to some pms asking about the elbows. I wish the GM engineer cast "nipples" into them for rubber hoses. Awww well..

This is the area:




Here is a close up of the black right angled tube (upper). I hope I don't break anything tomorrow during the R&R. I have a habit of making a mountain out of a molehill job wise. Embarassed




Still don't know what else I should get for the other heater hoses???

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GEAUX SAINTS/LSU!!!!!!!!!
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

OK. DID IT!!!!!!! Took 2 1/2 hours from set up to clean up thanks to the wife. God I love her. She's so into old cars. Anyway I followed Sabre's instructions and took my time. There were a few times I walked away and sat down to smoke and curse a time or 2. Both stupid elbows broke off. In the tensioner assm. AND IN THE BLOCK!!!!! (break time!!). Good thing I had a right angle pick. That crap was hard to break and remove.
I was concerned about debris entering the passages so I taped up one side of a "wedge" vaccuum cleaner attachment and sucked it out!! I then used water pressure to force out the stuff in the assm. The only issue after that was starting the bolts without stripping them. (Another smoke break). Finally all went in.
Now I tried to flush the rest of the water (cause that's all that was in there by now) by removing the lower hose at the radiator, but that seemed impossible without breaking tranny lines. Soooooo I just took out the pea c**k completely and let water run in the rad while the engine ran. I kept the heater on full blast and loosened the "purge valve" on top og the t-stat to release air. All that came out was fluid.
After about 10 minutes of this I stopped the water flow and after the rad drained, closed pea c**k and filled w/ straight Autozone Dex-cool GM approved coolant. It took 1 1/2 to fill the rad and bring overflow juga bit over "hot full", That equals to about 6 qts or a little more than half capacity.

We drove for sever miles and then checked-NO LEAKS!!!!!!, well at least not at the upper elbow anyway. The overflow also did not show a drop either strangely enough. Guess there was to air pockets in the block. Gonna keep an eye on it for the next few week sor so.


NOW IF I CAN JUST FIND A COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR THAT WORKS, I'D ME HAPPY AS, WELL AS I AM NOW THAT THE SAINTS ARE 8-0!!!!! Very Happy

Now If I did a step wrong or need to check something , please chime in!!!
Thanks for all the help fellas!!!!!

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GEAUX SAINTS/LSU!!!!!!!!!
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 10:40 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Make sure your radiator is full, and the overflow bottle correct level, and try bleeding the system again. Sometimes its pretty hard to get all that air out.

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