Okay, the top category - electrical - is almost all the passlock system. Look at how much it stands out. This is a big problem.
I bugged the dealer, and I bugged GM's complaint department. I tried to convince them that they should disable the system. My rationale is that I want a fully reliable car and their current fix is far from reliable. (I should add that my Sister had repair work done 3 times. 2 years later it is acting up again). No surprise I got nowhere.
This should be a recall. Anyways, the complaints department said that we could snail mail to GM. For Canadians it's:
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Sorry, don't have the US address.
Anyone have experience with class actions suites?
I am open to any suggestions - class action, work around, or anything else.
My #1 priority is to have a car I can rely on.
Posted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:23 pm Post subject: If it is a passlock problem, here's how I fixed mine
BB is right, class action lawsuits mainly benefit lawyers.
Here's how to fix passlock problems on Impalas. This will restore the car to factory specs with the passlock function intact. Mine would show security light when driving, and occasionally would not start. I would wait 10 minutes and try again and it would start.
Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 5:05 pm Post subject: Searched this site for passlock help when I had my problem
I found some clues and help, but nothing as clear as the link I posted. I wish I had written it. He includes troubleshooting so you are not "throwing parts at the problem". But the end of his fault tree basically says "throw these parts at the problem, replace passlock sensor, and ignition switch to save labor of repeating nearly the same operation later when the ignition switch fails". It worked for me.
And for someone like me with Amazon Prime, it is a great place to get the parts.
I'm slightly sorry for bothering to share good links.
I have this same problem but my car has never made me wait 10 mins to turn on(for now)
I read and searched for 1 week and i found out the answer a couple of months ago..
Basically you dont buy anything
You just need a soldering iron...
Theres 3 wires from the passlock sensor to the igntion (something like that) that you just have to solder together because they used cheap connectors to connect the passlock sensor and after time it gets corrision?
I never tried it but i read other peoples reviews that it worked..
There's no need to change the ignition switch if you're not having problems with the ignition switch as well. The Passlock sensor is in the ignition cylinder.
I wrote about this a few years ago and people keep writing new threads with different ideas that make no sense.
I'm past the point of throwing parts at my car, but apparently some people aren't.
Sadly for me throwing parts at the car got me further than trips to the dealer when I couldn't figure out why my radio wouldn't shut off. Although I do have a perfectly good used ignition switch for sale...
Protip: If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it.
Pardon my non-response. Having family emergency...
Ok a lawsuit of some kind was not to get any money but to compel GM to do a recall - as they should. However, I realize I won't even have enough time to repair this myself let alone try and agitate GM to act .
So there is some good advice, and I would like to flesh this out before I go to a garage to get the work done. Two possible routes I see are finding a garage who already has experience with this, or to get some info here and take it to a guy who is wiling to study.
1) Does anyone know of a good garage in the Niagara Region?
2) Of the options you guys mentioned, which has the best outcome. By best I mean that this will likely never show up again - I can be confident that the car will always start (I always keep it maintained).
-Bypass, no bypass
- throw parts
- Frank, could you provide a link?
- t3cn0, I have heard that this is hit and miss
When I swapped my cylinder out I got it from a guy on eBay. It was 100 bucks or so shipped and it came keyed already. Sure I have a key for the ignition and key for the locks, but it beat buying an uncoded cylinder and then paying a locksmith more money to key it for me. I had been having intermittent security light issues before I changed out the cylinder and that has gone away (3+ months and no security light).
Protip: If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it.
I bought my cylinder for about $130 and only paid $18 to have it keyed. If I got new keys (and not copies), it may have fixed the problem on its own...absent that, I might have been able to have my cylinder rekeyed as well and fixed that problem.
I'm saying if you can do it for $40, why bother with the new cylinder? I did it, but I didn't think everything through fully. If you want a new cylinder or you don't want matching keys - go for it.
_________________ 2001 Galaxy Silver 9C1 w/ L67 and 4T65E-HD...and a few other mods.
i too have the no start for ten min problem. i read in a past thread you cut the yellow wire and tap into the black wire. measure resistance from the yellow leading from the ignition sw and the black wire then buy a resistor close to that resistor then solder it from the yellow leading from the ignition sw to the black wire. the security light will stay on forever though. i havent done anything to mess with mine yet
Update: I did finally take the time to do the workaround.
Here's the thing - my car started even though I hadn't re-wired it. I started it several times while the yellow wire was cut. Go figure. I wonder if you even need the resistor or wire it back up.
Anyways, it's going good.
Also, what I did was to solder on extra lengths of wire - about 6' - for the black and both ends of the yellow. I rolled up the excess and tucked it in an empty space. That way if I ever need to make a change I don't have to pull the whole thing apart again -PITA. I used a pot too so that I can adjust the resistance as time goes on. Only prob with that is the pot wiggles around about (can't quite remember) 50ohms. Still works.
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