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3400 Intake Manifold / Coolant Leak Information

 
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rhinorocker
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2005 3:36 pm    Post subject:  3400 Intake Manifold / Coolant Leak Information Reply with quote

TSB # 03-06-01-010B

===========================================

You will need to get these part numbers from GM.

Gasket Kit - 89017559 - includes upper/lower and everything
Injector O-Ring Kit - 12570621 - comes with 16 o-rings
Four Center Bolts - 11588914 x 4
Four Corner Bolts - 11588915 x 4

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Credit For this part goes to Filter @ grandamgt.com

Quote:
I''m gonna try to cover as many cooling system related questions as I can in this thread. Please read this completely before posting a new question. If you have any new info pertaining to this topic, please PM me and I will add it to the FAQ.

First things first, it''s important to know that the cooling system is a closed system so technically it should never need topping up. However, in the real world this is never the case though and it could probobly be topped up every oil change.

-------------

Parts of the cooling system include the radiator, water pump, coolant level sensor, fan switch, hoses, thermostat, and lower intake manifold gasket. The location of everything should be pretty self explanatory except for the coolant level sensor and fan switch.

The coolant level sensor is located on the coolant resevoir. Sometimes ot comes on and off while braking or accelerating. This is beacuse when you stop is cause the coolant is moving around in the tank causing it top drop lower than the sensor. Same thing when you accelerate. Simply top it up and watch it.

The fan switch is located underneath the throttle body. It reads the temperature of the coolant and turns the fans on and off based upon that. If you find your fans aren''t turning on, first check the fuse. If it''s ok, jump the fans. This is done by disconnecting the wires from the sensor and connecting them directly to a power source. If the fan runs, replace the sensor. If you still get nothing, you may have to look into replacing your coolant fans. NOTE: The fans aren''t set to turn on right at the normal operating temp, but above so don''t panic right away if they aren''t on.

-------------

PROPERLY TOPPING UP THE COOLANT SYSTEM:

Whenever you lose alot of coolant, it is important to follow a certain procedure when topping up your coolant. Following this procedure ensures your system is properly filled and removes all air from your system which can cause overheating. When filling, you must fill your resevoir with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. Try not to mix coolant types. Doing so will void all longlife properties of your Dexcool.

When filling, keep pouring in coolant until your resevoir is full to the max line. With your coolant cap off, run the car. Your coolant will drop as it fills the system. Keep topping it up until it doesn''t drop anymore. NOTE: Make sure your heater is turned on while doing this. This will cause coolant to flow into your heater core. In addition, make sure your car is blowing hot air.

This method is the best method. Our cars have bleeder valves, but this method is easier and works just as well. It is the preferred method of alot of other car manufacturers.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Should your car have a leak, it can either be diagnosed visually, by adding dye to your coolant, or by doing a pressure test. You can find a leak visually yourself. The other 2 methods require certain equipment, but if you have access to the equipment are extremely easy to do.

LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET:

The lower intake manifold is fairly common on Grand Am''s. GM even released a TSB. Sometimes it leaks very slowely for a long time and sometimes it happens real quick and gushes alot of coolant out at once. It can either leak externally or internally. Externally just makes a mess. IF IT LEAKS INTERNALLY DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR AND GET IT FIXED. You can tell by pulling out your engine oil dipstick. If it looks milky, you have coolant in your oil. Coolant in your oil will destroy your bearings which costs ALOT to fix.

Parts you need to fix this include upper intake maniold gaskets, lower intake manifold gaskets, valve cover gaskets, 1 distributer plug gasket, and two EGR gaskets. If you go to the dealer and ask for the intake manifold gasket kit they usually know exactly what you''re talking about and will get you everything you need. Note GM made some new intake gaskets that are entirerly black and have matal rings in them. Make sure you get these.

As far as I''m concerned this is an easy job, just time consuming. That''s why it''s so expensive. It is very labour intensive. You have to take off the entire top half of the engine and gut all the externals around it just to get at the lower intake manifold. Here''s the run down on how to replace them, but please only attempt this if your are mechanically inclined:

- remove intake tube attached to throttle body.
- remove EGR
- remove coil pack and spark plug wires.
- remove upper intake manifold
- remove front valve cover
- remove alternator
- remove serpertine belt
- remove power steering pump (you will have to unmount the engine to get at some of the bolts holding this on. Make sure if you support the engine using a floor jack that you use a block of wood or you WILL CRACK YOUR OIL PAN)
- remove accessory brackets
- remove rear valve cover
- remove lower intake manifold
- loosen rockers and remove push rods (keep them in order)
- remove distributor dummy shaft to replace O-ring
- reassemble and follow the coolant filling procedure

* label everything and keeps similar items together so you know where it all goes
* get the torque specs for the engine. It is very important that everything be tourqed back to factory specs or you will be doing this job again
* everything except the block is aluminum so absolutely no over tightening or you will easily strip something in your engine. Then it''s time for tap and dye
* if a bolt starts going in crooked, take it out. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING IN. Go slowely if that happens. Once again, alluminum. If you don''t do it right and watch yourself, you''ll have to break out your tap and die set

TONS of pics can be found at http://www.grandampc.com/leak courtesy of djrkd

-------------

WATER PUMP:

When the water pump goes there will be coolant all over the passenger side engine bay and you will find yourself having to top the car up on a weekly basis. Usually, your car will not drip all the time, but will gush a large amount of coolant out after driving it. Just one gush, then nothing. This is because it leaks under pressure. After driving, there is alot of pressure built up in the cooling system which has to be released. It is released through the weep hole in the water pump.

The water pump is seriously easy to replace. The Grand Am uses a core, not a full pump. Here''s the run down on how to replace it:

- take tension off the serpertine belt so you can get it off the waterpump pulley
- remove water pump pulley (you will have to use something to stop the pulley from turning)
- you will now see the water pump core. Remove the screw holding it in and take it out
- clean gasket area
- install new water pump core making sure all holes line up on the core and gasket.
- reinstall pulley
- reinstall serpertine belt
- follow topping up coolant procedure

As stated, it''s that easy. I can do this job in 10 minutes flat

-------------

HOSES:

Hoses can usually be caught before they go by squeezing the hose. If it feels hard or brittle, replace it. If you don''t, it could crack out of the blue and spew coolant all over.

-------------

CLAMPS:

Clamps are as easy as making sure they are tight.

-------------

RADIATOR:

A crack in the radiator is harder to diagnose and requires more advanced methods, but it''s a rare leak anyway so no worries.
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Juggalo
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 2:49 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

The link to the LIM Gasket replacement pictures isn't working.
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Chi_Town
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 3:56 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Yeah that link dont work =-(
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ColtHero
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:12 pm    Post subject:  '02 Impala (3.4l): Intake Manifold Gasket Replacement Q's Reply with quote

About to begin the intake manifold job on my '02 3.4l Impala (93k). Picked up the Felpro gaskets a few weeks ago. Mechanics will probably think this is crazy, but I went through my shops manuals and expanded the entire removal and install (sub) procedures into one big linear procedure (so that I can procede from step A to Z without flipping pages back and forth in my manuals).

Got a few questions after doing this, however:

REMOVAL STEP #2: Remove the Upper Intake Manifold:

1.) Sub-Step 10 says to "remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils", however the sub-steps say to remove the coils from the ICM. Will this be necessary?

2.) Sub-Step 13 says to remove the EGR valve, which has a gasket. Will this gasket need to be replace on re-install?

3.) Sub-Step 18 says to remove the throttle body if replacing the intake manifold. This implies that I shouldn't have to remove the throttle body, right?

4.) Sub-Step 19 says to "clean the upper intake gasket mating surfaces". How is this best done?

REMOVAL STEP #3: Remove the LEFT valve rocker arm cover:

5.) Sub-Step 3 says to "remove the right engine mount strut". Sub-Step 4 says to remove the thermostat bypass hose and pipe - which includes removal of the "LH engine mount strut". If BOTH engine mounts are removed, what's holding up the engine at this point? Also part of the T-stat bypass hose/pipe removal is the removal of the "fuel injector sight shield". Can all this T-stat bypass hose/pipe removal-related stuff be skipped? I thought I remember seeing someone say they did this.

REMOVAL STEP #9: Remove the fuel FEED pipe from the fuel injector rail:

6.) Sub-Step 1 says to "Relieve Fuel Pressure" by installing a fuel pressure gauge fitting and fuel pressure gauge, then installing a bleed hose and opening a valve. What's the easier way to do this?

7.) Sub-Step 5 says to "Disconnect the quick-connect fittings from the fuel FEED pipe and the fuel return pipe in the engine compartment". Sub-Step 6 says to "Disconnect the quick-connect fitting from the fuel RETURN pipe in front of the fuel tank". Is this necessary?

REMOVAL STEP #11: Remove the Fuel Injector Rail:

8.) Sub-Step 14 says to "Remove the injector O-ring seal from the spray tip end of each injector". Is this necessary?

REMOVAL STEP #12: Remove the power steering pump:

8.) Do the pressure line and return hoses need to be dis-connected? Can I avoid bleeding the system later on?

---------------------------------------------------

INSTALL STEP #5: Apply bead of RTV Sealer (to install Lower Intake gaskets)

9.) What type and brand of RTV Sealer should I use (other than the GM P/N mentioned)?

INSTALL STEP #7: Install the valve rocker arms and push rods:

10.) Sub-steps specify "pre-lube" to be put on the ends of the push rods and rocker arm friction surfaces. What type and brand to use ?? Also when the valve rocker arm bolts are tightened to 19 N-m, it also specifies an "additional 30 degrees" of tightening. What's with that?

INSTALL STEP #9: Apply thread locker to lower intake manifold bolts:

11.) Can I buy the thread locker in a store, or do I have to get the GM P/N? Also, can I clean and re-use the old bolts?

INSTALL STEP #10: Lower Intake bolt tightening schedule:

a.) Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (4 inner bolts) to 7 N-m or 62 lb in
b.) Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (4 outer bolts) to 7 N-m or 62 lb in
c.) Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (2nd round) to 13 N-m or 115 lb in
d.) Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (2nd round) to 18 FT.LBS(3/27/08: was just re-reading my old post and noticed the wrong number here in step (d)... it's different from the others ... 18 FT LBS ... don't want to mislead anyone)

Are this values still good, or have they been revised since the manual was printed?

INSTALL STEP #15: Install the fuel injector rail:

12.) Sub-step 8 calls for NEW O-RINGS in the fuel feed pipe and fuel return pipe. Necessary?

INSTALL STEP #24: Install the upper intake manifold:

13.) Sub-procedure makes no mention of any sealant being used on the gaskets. Is this correct?

-------------------------------------------
Also, procedure doesn't appear to mention any special tools. Are there any, or are there any ADDITIONAL repairs that are recommended that the manual hasn't mentioned?


Sorry for the length of this post...


Last edited by ColtHero on Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Chi_Town
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 3:35 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I belive the Egr Gasket will need to be replaced but im not 100% sure i dont remember if i had did that when my Gasket went on my 02. Let me get back to you on that question. Also the others im going to look into myself and im sure by the time i get any if all the information they will already have been answerd but we sha'll see.

ANd, the way you have everything set through is a good How Too Add on and i would post it up so they can give it's credability *sp* and make it easyer for other NAIOA Members or Outsides the information they might need if they have this issue, nice work on the right up.
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04impala07
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:14 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

what year of Impala 3.4 has stopped having this issue? Mines is an 04 with a 3.4 motor and it has an excess of 72K miles on it and the coolant hasnt leaked at all.
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ColtHero
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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 9:09 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Don't know, but last year I saw a 2003 Impala 3.4 with a leak. It was a corporate car. Take a look a the side of your block behind the water pump and power steering pump. Look along the black "V" diagonal seal and down into the gulley below where sand and road dirt has probably accumulated. My car (2002 3.4) and the 2003 were both leaking here. It starts as a damp spot on the face of the block, then it turns into a full blown leak streaming down into the sand and dirt below (forming a muddy mix). I think the first generation of updated gaskets came out in '04, so if your '04 was actually built in '03, it might still be leaking.

One thing I tried that you might want to try is pouring some bright green dye into the radiator. Mine eventually bubbled out the side of the block, verifying the leak.
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PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2008 10:49 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

ColtHero wrote:
Don't know, but last year I saw a 2003 Impala 3.4 with a leak. It was a corporate car. Take a look a the side of your block behind the water pump and power steering pump. Look along the black "V" diagonal seal and down into the gulley below where sand and road dirt has probably accumulated. My car (2002 3.4) and the 2003 were both leaking here. It starts as a damp spot on the face of the block, then it turns into a full blown leak streaming down into the sand and dirt below (forming a muddy mix). I think the first generation of updated gaskets came out in '04, so if your '04 was actually built in '03, it might still be leaking.

One thing I tried that you might want to try is pouring some bright green dye into the radiator. Mine eventually bubbled out the side of the block, verifying the leak.

you got lucky, yours sounded like an external leak where you could see it. i had an internal leak, as where i didnt know it was leaking
04impala07 wrote:
what year of Impala 3.4 has stopped having this issue? Mines is an 04 with a 3.4 motor and it has an excess of 72K miles on it and the coolant hasnt leaked at all.

not that you can see. dont get me wrong, since you're not having issues is a good thing, but i didnt know mine was leaking until i went to the dealer to have the case learn done. and its not just the coolant that leaks, the oil will too.

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 9:39 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

is there any kind of recall on this issue?..and about what mileage does it happen?..my'02 has just over 63 K on it..no problems yet,knock on wood..

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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 9:50 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

No recall. Just a TSB.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 11:49 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Found this writeup on a grand am site for replacing gaskets on the 3400:

http://www.gaownersclub.com/fo.....?p=1347512

Not sure if there's any differences between the impala and grand am procedure, but there's lots of good pics on there and the instructions are well written.

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