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The Big 3 upgrade

 
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TwoToneOnBlack
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2003 Chevrolet Impala
2004 Chevrolet Impala


PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:57 pm    Post subject:  The Big 3 upgrade Reply with quote

You guys can use this until you do your write up. Very Happy
I left all the factory wiring in place and intact
Sorry I don’t have lengths I guess I can probably pull out a tape measure when I get home.

Big 3:
1. piece of 4ga wire from the top post positive terminal of the battery to the alternator positive bolt
2. piece of 4ga wire from the top post negative terminal of the battery to alternator hold down bolt
3. piece of 4ga from the top post of the battery to a ground location
3b. You don’t have to do this but I had some 0ga laying around so I ran a line from the side negative post of the battery to a bolt under the headlight

Alternator Voltage Booster
1.Soldered a one amp diode to the orange wire with the black line facing the alternator

Alternator Power Wire
1. Ran a piece of 4ga from the top post positive terminal to the fuse block

Amplifier Wireup
1a. Most will use this: Ran a piece of 4ga from the side post to a (no father than 18” away) fuse then to the amplifier in the trunk


1b. My setup is a little more extensive so I: Ran a piece of 0ga from the side post of the engine battery, to the 200 Amp Stinger Battery Isolator, 0ga to the 200 Stinger Breaker, then the long 0ga run to a 2nd Optima Yellow Top Battery in the trunk, another 0ga run to a 3rd Optima Yellow Top Battery, a 0ga run to a 0ga to 4ga distribution block, lastly 4ga to amplifiers, and another items; and Grounded the 2 batteries with some 0ga to the two bolts under the back seat





UPDATE: 10/15/2010

The Big 3 upgrade Part 2 (Mods/Admin please add to sticky)

Here is part 2 the picture tutorial for 2000-2005 Impala Big 3 Power Upgrade plus the Alternator Power Cable.

Remember the big 3 is:
1. A wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the alternator positive bolt
2. A wire from the negative terminal of the battery to engine
3. A wire from the negative terminal of the battery to frame
Alternator Power Cable is:
1. Power wire from alternator positive bolt to the fuse box.


Stock everything………leave everything the way it is, we are going to just add-on to what you see.


Let’s reiterate do not try to remove any factory wiring.


Now let’s remove the battery post. Negative first. Then Positive. (Do as I say not as you see ha ha)


Negative first. Then Positive.


Remove the battery post with a flat head screwdriver.


Install a Stinger GM Gold Battery Terminal, one for positive, and one for negative, you may be able to get it from your local auto parts or stereo store. Or just buy one online http://www.darvex.com


Install a Stinger GM Gold Battery Terminal, one for positive, and one for negative, you may be able to get it from your local auto parts or stereo store. Or just buy one online http://www.darvex.com


Take a 13mm socket and remove the alternator power bolt.


Remove your passenger’s side headlight and remove the top bolt and sand the area here with a Dremel, sand paper, etc.


Sanded spot.


Now pay attention….the only reason I used four different colors is to help with this tutorial, you can use any color or size you want. The lengths I used are the following:
Silver: 42”
Red: 28”
Blue: 32”
Brown: 24”
There are 3/8th copper lugs I got from Walmart on each end and the wrapped with electrical tape.
You can also order them from here also http://www.darvex.com


The Silver wire runs from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery.


The Red wire runs from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the fuse box.


Run the Blue wire from the alternator bracket bolt to the negative side of the battery.


Run the Brown wire from the sanded down bolt area to the negative side of the battery.


Bolt everything back up.


Bolt everything back up.


And your done.
P.S. the other red wire is a Oga wire going from the battery to the circuit breaker, that is attached to the fuse box, and then to the amps in trunk.

If you still don’t understand how to do the Big 3 after this write up, DO NOT attempt this!!! Take it to someone who does, for instance an audio shop, if the audio shop has no idea what you’re talking about don’t go there. Laughing

-TwoToneOnBlack

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this
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Sabrewings
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Location: Bossier City, LA

2004 Chevrolet Impala
2009 Subaru Impreza


PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:21 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

If anyone has anything to add to this topic, such as pictures or additional information, please PM myself or one of the other mods/admins.

Thanks.

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bbengineer
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2004 Chevrolet Impala
1998 Chevrolet Corvette
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe
2008 Subaru Impreza
1970 Chevrolet Chevelle


PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2010 8:23 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Updated

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ZSPOT
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2001 Chevrolet Impala
2004 Ford Mustang
1981 Chevrolet Silverado
2007 Chevrolet Silverado


PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2012 1:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks to HotSauce6226 Very Happy


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IffyG
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2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue
2009 Chevrolet Malibu


PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:05 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Before I sell the Monte I figured I'd contribute some pictures to this thread. While the alternator to auxillary power post rewire (AKA the ZZP alt re-wire) is pretty straight forward this is how I accomplished the engine to chassis and battery to chassis components. Combined with the alt rewire, this netted me .3 volts at idle as read by my Aeroforce gauge.

When this was connected each ring terminal was connected to the bolt in its circle in the photo.


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