Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 2:57 pm Post subject: The Big 3 upgrade
You guys can use this until you do your write up.
I left all the factory wiring in place and intact
Sorry I don’t have lengths I guess I can probably pull out a tape measure when I get home.
1. piece of 4ga wire from the top post positive terminal of the battery to the alternator positive bolt
2. piece of 4ga wire from the top post negative terminal of the battery to alternator hold down bolt
3. piece of 4ga from the top post of the battery to a ground location
3b. You don’t have to do this but I had some 0ga laying around so I ran a line from the side negative post of the battery to a bolt under the headlight
Alternator Voltage Booster
1.Soldered a one amp diode to the orange wire with the black line facing the alternator
Alternator Power Wire
1. Ran a piece of 4ga from the top post positive terminal to the fuse block
1a. Most will use this: Ran a piece of 4ga from the side post to a (no father than 18” away) fuse then to the amplifier in the trunk
1b. My setup is a little more extensive so I: Ran a piece of 0ga from the side post of the engine battery, to the 200 Amp Stinger Battery Isolator, 0ga to the 200 Stinger Breaker, then the long 0ga run to a 2nd Optima Yellow Top Battery in the trunk, another 0ga run to a 3rd Optima Yellow Top Battery, a 0ga run to a 0ga to 4ga distribution block, lastly 4ga to amplifiers, and another items; and Grounded the 2 batteries with some 0ga to the two bolts under the back seat
The Big 3 upgrade Part 2 (Mods/Admin please add to sticky)
Here is part 2 the picture tutorial for 2000-2005 Impala Big 3 Power Upgrade plus the Alternator Power Cable.
Remember the big 3 is:
1. A wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the alternator positive bolt
2. A wire from the negative terminal of the battery to engine
3. A wire from the negative terminal of the battery to frame
Alternator Power Cable is:
1. Power wire from alternator positive bolt to the fuse box.
Stock everything………leave everything the way it is, we are going to just add-on to what you see.
Let’s reiterate do not try to remove any factory wiring.
Now let’s remove the battery post. Negative first. Then Positive. (Do as I say not as you see ha ha)
Negative first. Then Positive.
Remove the battery post with a flat head screwdriver.
Take a 13mm socket and remove the alternator power bolt.
Remove your passenger’s side headlight and remove the top bolt and sand the area here with a Dremel, sand paper, etc.
Now pay attention….the only reason I used four different colors is to help with this tutorial, you can use any color or size you want. The lengths I used are the following:
There are 3/8th copper lugs I got from Walmart on each end and the wrapped with electrical tape.
You can also order them from here also http://www.darvex.com
The Silver wire runs from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the battery.
The Red wire runs from the positive post of the alternator to the positive post of the fuse box.
Run the Blue wire from the alternator bracket bolt to the negative side of the battery.
Run the Brown wire from the sanded down bolt area to the negative side of the battery.
Bolt everything back up.
Bolt everything back up.
And your done.
P.S. the other red wire is a Oga wire going from the battery to the circuit breaker, that is attached to the fuse box, and then to the amps in trunk.
If you still don’t understand how to do the Big 3 after this write up, DO NOT attempt this!!! Take it to someone who does, for instance an audio shop, if the audio shop has no idea what you’re talking about don’t go there.
_________________ 2nd Place GM All Class - Spring Fling Panama City, FL - 2011
If twotone says something is retarded. you know it's gotta be really bad.
just tired of the threads with cars people don't like
Before I sell the Monte I figured I'd contribute some pictures to this thread. While the alternator to auxillary power post rewire (AKA the ZZP alt re-wire) is pretty straight forward this is how I accomplished the engine to chassis and battery to chassis components. Combined with the alt rewire, this netted me .3 volts at idle as read by my Aeroforce gauge.
When this was connected each ring terminal was connected to the bolt in its circle in the photo.
Protip: If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it.
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