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Starter/ing problems NEW UPDATE 10/18/07

 
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kevan_miller
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:16 am    Post subject:  Starter/ing problems NEW UPDATE 10/18/07 Reply with quote

I am new to NAIOA and so far i like it, great site. any way..... heres my problem recently my car wont start once and a while. if i jump it it works just fine. (i am not new to working on cars). it acts like the batt is dead, you all know the slow turning over just about to fire then it all stops. well i did some debugging. my car is always pulling 10-11 volts with nothing on. i pulled all of the fuses and the voltage never droped. there fore it wasnt running through a fuse. the only 2 things i know of that rnt fused are the alt and the starter. i un wired the alt and was still pulling 10-11 volts. i have yet to undo te starter (due to a sudden onslaught of rain(damn weatherman)) but can it really pull that much? if so wat should i do. a reman starter is 150 and new 160. i kinda wanna know for sure what is wrong before i go pouring money to replace a good part(plus i forsee replacement being a pain in the butt)



OK ... so replacing the starter wouldnt be that bad but... i dont have to there nothing wrong with it. (gaga googoo(my 2 yr brother is next to me and would shut up till i put gaga goo goo in lol)) we narrowed the problen ti the top fuse box under the hood. it is the 60a fuses on the bottom of that box. they all puttlin around 11v can anyone help me find what is wrong. i know what each of the fuses are but it a combo of all of them so we cant narrow it down. should i replace the fuse box or is it what the fuses go to that is the problem HELP


Last edited by kevan_miller on Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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bbengineer
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:11 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

First thing, have the battery load tested... it's probably bad

There is a chance the starter is going, but I'd start w/ the battery

BBEngineer

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Sabrewings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:11 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Also, don't jump it if you don't have to. That's a common way to fry the fragile BCM.

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milwaukee_01impala
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:01 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

i had similar probs, although i never tested for amp pull. i replaced the battery and everythings good now.

Sabrewings wrote:
Also, don't jump it if you don't have to. That's a common way to fry the fragile BCM.


Shocked well, i jumped the old battery numerous times, thank god nothing happened.

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kevan_miller
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:29 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

its not that the battery is dead. think of it this way. if you take a normal flashlight and leave i on it will go dead. i need to figure out how to shut the "flash light off" get it??
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Sabrewings
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:30 pm    Post subject:  Re: Starter/ing problems NEW UPDATE 10/18/07 Reply with quote

kevan_miller wrote:
my car is always pulling 10-11 volts with nothing on. i pulled all of the fuses and the voltage never droped. there fore it wasnt running through a fuse. the only 2 things i know of that rnt fused are the alt and the starter. i un wired the alt and was still pulling 10-11 volts.


You may know something about cars but you know little about electricity. 10-11 volts aren't being "pulled." Amps are pulled. 10-11 volts means your battery is running low since it should be at 12 volts. Volts are the differing electrical potentials between two points (i.e. the positive and negative terminals of a battery). Amps are the actual flow of electricity. If you actually test for amps flowing you will see that little to none actually are.

BBE's original assessment is correct. Have the battery tested and you will find it is faulty.

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nightryder
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:03 pm    Post subject:  Re: Starter/ing problems NEW UPDATE 10/18/07 Reply with quote

Sabrewings wrote:
kevan_miller wrote:
my car is always pulling 10-11 volts with nothing on. i pulled all of the fuses and the voltage never droped. there fore it wasnt running through a fuse. the only 2 things i know of that rnt fused are the alt and the starter. i un wired the alt and was still pulling 10-11 volts.


You may know something about cars but you know little about electricity. 10-11 volts aren't being "pulled." Amps are pulled. 10-11 volts means your battery is running low since it should be at 12 volts. Volts are the differing electrical potentials between two points (i.e. the positive and negative terminals of a battery). Amps are the actual flow of electricity. If you actually test for amps flowing you will see that little to none actually are.

BBE's original assessment is correct. Have the battery tested and you will find it is faulty.


Or you could have something drawing power from your battery when the car is off. to test for it you need to disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and put a multi-meter capable of reading current in line with the positive lead. (not sure what amp setting to set the meter on, BBE will probably chime in on that, but you don't want to turn the car on with the voltmeter connected or you will fry the meter) if there is any current present, start pulling fuses until it goes away
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kevan_miller
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:43 pm    Post subject:  Re: Starter/ing problems NEW UPDATE 10/18/07 Reply with quote

nightryder wrote:
Sabrewings wrote:
kevan_miller wrote:
my car is always pulling 10-11 volts with nothing on. i pulled all of the fuses and the voltage never droped. there fore it wasnt running through a fuse. the only 2 things i know of that rnt fused are the alt and the starter. i un wired the alt and was still pulling 10-11 volts.


You may know something about cars but you know little about electricity. 10-11 volts aren't being "pulled." Amps are pulled. 10-11 volts means your battery is running low since it should be at 12 volts. Volts are the differing electrical potentials between two points (i.e. the positive and negative terminals of a battery). Amps are the actual flow of electricity. If you actually test for amps flowing you will see that little to none actually are.

BBE's original assessment is correct. Have the battery tested and you will find it is faulty.


Or you could have something drawing power from your battery when the car is off. to test for it you need to disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and put a multi-meter capable of reading current in line with the positive lead. (not sure what amp setting to set the meter on, BBE will probably chime in on that, but you don't want to turn the car on with the voltmeter connected or you will fry the meter) if there is any current present, start pulling fuses until it goes away


that is what we were doing. pulling fuses but we were on the neg wire. and like i said i read 0 volts when the 4 60a fuses on the top fuse box under the hood .plug them in and it reads around 10-11volts. i know little about the stock wiring in a car i know enought about aux stuff, but my moms BF , is also my mechanic, he quite that because he was sick of hot, cold, and wet all day long. he then became an electrician, so what i dont he usally does. his brother inlaw works at a gm dealer but we dont talk much. we have called him about this because it baffels us
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bbengineer
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:47 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Take the battery out and have it load tested

A parasitic draw will not cause the battery to drop to 10-11 volts for HOURS after it's been fully charged

There is nothing baffling here... until you test your battery... you are wasting your time

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milwaukee_01impala
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 5:49 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

go out to your car, dont turn it on. take your voltmeter and put it to the battery. it should be 12 volts. if not, well i think you found the prob.

and you say your mom bf is an electrition, most general electritions dont work with dc current., dc and ac are two totally different things and they work different. in your first post you said its like the battery is dead Rolling Eyes ?????

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kevan_miller
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 2:31 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

alright i had the batt load tested and it failed. i put in a new batt (also re painted the batt tray). i will give you guy the credit if my problem doesnt come back. i didnt happen every time i started just once and a while. soo if i think enought time has passed and it isnt going to do it again itll be ok. thank you for the help and i am sorry i was stubborn. although i know i am bias, i still trust barry(moms bf) yes he was a electrician and worked with AC but before that he was a mechanic and he workded with DC.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 7:33 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Glad you got it worked out...

Couple of lessons learned:
1) General Mechanics usually do not know alot about the electrical systems of cars. They are much better at mechanical repair
2) Electricians are not usually got with automotive electrical systems because they are much more complex than home/business wiring
3) In almost all cases, a group of enthusiasts for a particular car will know ALOT more about that car (and it's quirks) that 99% of the mechanics

In the future, you'll save yourself alot of time and headache if you sit back and take the good advice provided here rather than arguing... because we've seen nearly ever problem with these vehicles....

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capebretoner7
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject:  02 impala wont start Reply with quote

hello im having same problems as others car wont crank at all pull the fuze labled bcm/cluster and it fires rite up after i reinstall it i thaught it was paslock related so i bypased it worked fine but wen the car sits after i return home for an hr maybee less somtimes it wont crank over again and radio locks! its like theres a dead batery but its not dead cause if i pull the fuze it has tons of crank there nd fires rite up? anyone have this problem on here?
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 10:27 pm    Post subject:  Re: 02 impala wont start Reply with quote

capebretoner7 wrote:
hello im having same problems as others car wont crank at all pull the fuze labled bcm/cluster and it fires rite up after i reinstall it i thaught it was paslock related so i bypased it worked fine but wen the car sits after i return home for an hr maybee less somtimes it wont crank over again and radio locks! its like theres a dead batery but its not dead cause if i pull the fuze it has tons of crank there nd fires rite up? anyone have this problem on here?


This thread is almost 5 years old. Some of the people that responded before may not be around here anymore. You may be better off creating a new thread.
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