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Changing front hubs....hilarity ensues!
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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:20 pm    Post subject: Bad ! Changing front hubs....hilarity ensues! Reply with quote

No school today so I decided to tackle the left hub which had a good bit of play in it, checked my GM service manuals, nothing special about it, plus I had replaced my right side axle and that went rather smoothly.

Started tearing down the left side, take the axle nut off, axle is pretty much frozen in the hub. Rolling Eyes It went downhill fast from here. Laughing Had to beat on the axle with a good hammer to get it to loosen, then I put the puller on the hub to push the axle in, POS is too narrow so the 3 lug nuts barely caught on, start to tighten it down and one flies off and hits my stomach! Shocked Ouch! Then I decided to beat the axle some more which worked wonders. Finally got it all the way in using the puller. Very Happy

Ok, so now the axle is loose, time to push it in and out (like most other effin cars!!!!) Oh no, not this one. I cant get it out of the hub all the way to get to the bolts! Remove tie rod end and sway bar link, no dice. I was able to take the 3 hub bolts out but it was a huge pain. Axle is still in there, check the GM service manual for axle replacement. Wow! Apparently if you want to replace the axle, you have to undo the lower ball joint! Ummm geniuses shouldnt you have made a mention of that in the hub replacement section???? So now its time to remove the lower ball joint. Run to the store to get the ball joint set, finally get it off. Remove the knuckle and strut assembly from the car to make it easier to put the new hub in.

But wait, the axle is now leaking! AHHHHHH! Back to the store to get a new axle and trans seal, sure I can do a boot kit but I'd rather just get a new one for $40 more (why do boot kits cost ***** $30 each????). On this trip I also pass by 2 dealerships and buy 6 new bolts, the guy actually told me that in the shop they never change them (like in the service manual) and never had any problems, they're regular bolts and arent torque-to-yield, I still buy them since I had lightly rounded 2 of them.

Come back with the new Cardone axle, take a look at it, wtf its the wrong one! Go to rockauto.com and punch in the part number, its for a 90-93 Honda Accord! What is O'Reilly's smoking???

Well, still have some daylight so I might as well put the new hub in the knuckle and clean up a bit. Took 15 minutes and flipped my dogbones too Laughing Go back to OReilly's to exchange the axle, the guy made an honest mistake since Cardone just got bought out by OReilly and is now their store brand and they put new part numbers along with the old ones, our axle is GM8045 while the Honda one was HO8045. Laughing Laughing Easy to miss if you're in a hurry. The old number is 66-1255.

Get back home, its late and there's a concert in Baton Rouge so I drive 2 hours there, get there around 11 and its packed, 3 big-time bounce rappers from New Orleans are at my favorite bar, it was crazy crowded and lot of people I knew didnt show up, but some of my old roommates were there so I wound up chillin with them.

To be continued once I get the new axle.... Laughing



Used hubs with 37K from Morad - $80
6 new bolts - $9
New CV Axle -
Trans seal -
WHY IN GODS NAME DIDNT I JUST PAY SOMEBODY $400 TO DEAL WITH THIS????? Priceless!

Oh, and my "new" hubs are still used pieces, but they have a 90 day warranty, hopefully they'll last another 100k or so because I am sooooo wanting to get this car done! Laughing

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Last edited by MISHNAH on Thu Oct 11, 2007 4:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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myimpala88
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:26 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Laughing

Good luck man! Smile
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9C5
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I don't remember you having any big issues with the car when the forum was created...must be a mileage thing?

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MISHNAH
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:35 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

9C5 wrote:
I don't remember you having any big issues with the car when the forum was created...must be a mileage thing?


Up until early summer 2006, the car was 99.5% bone-stock. Since then its gotten a new interior and a completely revamped suspension, plus other small things here and there that needed to be fixed.

I also have around 135K right now, thats a lot of miles for a car this old. Laughing Most of what I've changed this summer was replacing worn out parts with new better parts and upgrading any related parts that I could.

Sure I hate spending soooo much time and knuckles on this car, but the ride and handling afterwards make up for it. Nevertheless, my next car will be loaded and I'll probably take it to a shop for any major repairs. Laughing Wink Maybe, maybe not. Laughing

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2006 Nissan Murano - Autodim/compass mirror
2006 Mercedez-Benz E350 - Stock for stock, its faster than an SS, woot!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:10 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Its a fun job aint it!?! Laughing Laughing Laughing

The first rear hub I did on mine did not want to come out, I spent a few hours trying to "finesse" it out. Then I just got so pissed that I took a sledge hammer and a crow bar to it...and it popped right out Wink Laughing

Then a few months later the other rear hub went. So I bypassed all the "BS" I went through with the last one and reached right for my trusty crow bar. Only thing was that this time the damn parking brake bolts with the torx heads occupied me for a few hours (not to mention it was -20 out that day) Evil or Very Mad

That seal sucked balls too, I couldn't budge the hub out so I wound up disconnecting the sway bar, removeing the strut, and disconnecting the control arm from the sub-frame. Lets just say I invented quite a few curses that day Very Happy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 9:46 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

When I replaced my hub, it practically fell off as soon as I got the bolts off. I didn't unbolt the knuckle or anything. Just became rather limber and laid up under with nothing but my ratchet, breaker bar, and patience. Nor did I buy new bolts either, since they looked just fine to me with some thread locking compound on them. Very Happy

Good luck, though.

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Frank
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:29 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Aluminum knuckle + Steel hub + Road Salt = lots of oxidation and corrosion.

You southern types have it easy when it comes to replacing stuff on your cars. Wink

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 4:03 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Frank wrote:
Aluminum knuckle + Steel hub + Road Salt = lots of oxidation and corrosion.

You southern types have it easy when it comes to replacing stuff on your cars. Wink


X2, that's why when I replace stuff, I just go all out from the beginning and buy every single part brand new and do it right the first time, either the old stuff is going to get broke in the process of taking it out, or for the simple fact of while it's out, I'd rather get something not rusted to all hell in there and attempt to avoid situations like this.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 5:22 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Frank wrote:
Aluminum knuckle + Steel hub + Road Salt = lots of oxidation and corrosion.

You southern types have it easy when it comes to replacing stuff on your cars. Wink


But MISHNAH lives even further south than I do... Wink

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 6:14 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Frank wrote:
Aluminum knuckle + Steel hub + Road Salt = lots of oxidation and corrosion.

You southern types have it easy when it comes to replacing stuff on your cars. Wink


Instead of continuing to thread crap in a thread that might disappear for its uselessness, I think I'm gonna ask a question here since it fits. My car spent the better part of 6 years in the salt belt, so I'm afraid I'm gonna have some serious corrosion issues when I try to remove my hubs. Any suggestions as to tools I should have on hand when I tackle this, since I'm sure as hell they aren't just gonna pop out out of the knuckle.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 6:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

This guy works wonders http://www.naioa.com/v2/module.....hlight=hub

I tried to remove my front hubs without it once and I couldn't do it. Your best bet is to figure out a way to strap something to it that you can use to get enough leverage to rip the bastard out.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 6:31 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

That's exactly what I'm afraid of... hmm I might limp the car to Chicago and do it at my friends shop... or I might give it the old college try and re-evaluate.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 11:43 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Sledgehammer, crowbar...oh, and a chisel if you feel like it. Wink

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 1:02 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I've had a lot of success with a 3 jaw puller when removing corroded hubs. Either the whole hub will pull off or you rip the bearing apart, leaving the inner race on the axle. You can then hook the jaws on this race and pull it off. The BFH method works some of the time and you may want to do a combination of hammering on it then switching to the puller.

I'd also hit it with penetrating oil a bunch of times while you wait for the bearings to show up.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:21 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

My father in law used an air chisel to get the mo------er off, and now the RF is the one that is bad, not the LF. Plus found the antifreeze leaking somewhere, have the LIM issue still, etc. I'm seriously thinking of writing gm a letter. Evil or Very Mad My cavalier wasn't the best, but at least it didn't have new bugs popping up every other week. Mad

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