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04 Impala LS L36 Single Bank Turbo??

 
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04SilverbulletLS
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:25 am    Post subject:  04 Impala LS L36 Single Bank Turbo?? Reply with quote

Has anyone on here done a single bank turbo setup on an L36?? 
I got an 04 LS that I'd like to slap a small turbo on and make about 250-300 whp. Since im a nhewb on here I think its important I mention I'm not new to the FI game. My other 2 vehicles are a 02 Lightning w/ built motor & eaton gt500 H122 and 2013 escape 2.0 ecoboost. I do a lot of eaton blower porting for Ford guys and I recently traded one of my loaner ports for a set of ev1 42# injectors, greddy bov, SRT4 FMIC / T25 baby dhick turbo / guages etc. My impala is my DD and I just wanna slap a single bank low boost single turbo on it to give it some more grunt. I have done a little research on my own of which I learned that an L36 TB flows around 367 cfm in stock n/a trim at sea level. I plan on swapping to an L26 UIM and running a cable throttle. I also know that the neon T25 turbo I have on hand is too small being as its max flow rate is around 430 cfm @ 20#s. I figure I'll sell/ trade this T25 turbo for a GT35R or a holset hx35/40. I looked into an L67 top swap but the cheapest I could find was around $600 for all the parts. Since I already have all the odds and ends I'd need for turbo plus I own a mig welder I figure I can do a low psi single bank turbo for about $100 out of pocket. I also have a snow kit that I traded some other ford junk for that im gonna use with the turbo L36 to combat knock etc.

Any insight you guys have would be appreciated.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 2:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

There are a few turbo L36's floating around. Its a fairly simple job, you need to tune and save your $$$ for a transmission.

If you are familiar with supercharging and Eaton in general, you can always top-swap and put an M90 on there. I think there was a M112 L67 floating around, if so, you can go into that

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04SilverbulletLS
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 5:20 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Pitch Black SS wrote:
There are a few turbo L36's floating around. Its a fairly simple job, you need to tune and save your $$$ for a transmission.

If you are familiar with supercharging and Eaton in general, you can always top-swap and put an M90 on there. I think there was a M112 L67 floating around, if so, you can go into that


After doing some more research I figured out that a pair of the T25 srt4 neon turbos would be plenty big enough to feed the ole 3800 on low boost...so im going the twins route unless I run up on a dirt cheap HX35/40
I looked into L67 top swapping but for the roughly $600-800 to buy all the parts I can build myself a nice turbo kit. Like I said I already got one T25 turbo, FMIC and BOV.. I just need one more T25 and some tubing to build a nice TT kit. Its nice to have your own welder and bench mill.

Copy in the Trans is poop...I heard they let go around 350ft#s...Which sux.
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 7:26 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Catacoun tuning or something like that made a turbo package for the W-body.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 1:13 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

04SilverbulletLS wrote:


Copy in the Trans is poop...I heard they let go around 350ft#s...Which sux.


If you are talking about the 4t65e, they do a good job killing themselves with a stock 3400.... Adding power just guarantees failure.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 15, 2014 6:21 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
04SilverbulletLS wrote:


Copy in the Trans is poop...I heard they let go around 350ft#s...Which sux.


If you are talking about the 4t65e, they do a good job killing themselves with a stock 3400.... Adding power just guarantees failure.



Copy on go ahead and buy the 4t65Hd trans rebuild kit, a good PI converter and a set of GTP axles. My LS is a late model 04 and I have read that they were a little better than the earlier 4T65E's...I reckon I'll find out soon enough if thats true.

^^There is no such thing as Canatoun performance but Cartune Performance makes a turbo kit for the W body...however its still a dual bank setup. I have seen some early 80s T type Regals (carbed ones, not GNs) with single bank turbos. When you tune a single bank setup on a Vblock you just tune for the nonturbo side since it will flow more freely and run a leaner mixture. On the Turbo manifold bank side the back pressure will make the afr a little richer and you make the overall fuel tables a few points richer for both sides. On most Vblock fuel injected vehicles with a primary O2 sensor on each bank of cylinders the ECU will adjust injector pulsewidth independently for each bank once its gone from open to closed loop and begins to reference those O2s and adjust LT fuel trims. The only fueling and AFR concern is when the engine is cold and in open loop, running off the base tables and not referencing those 02s. With a tuning package like HPTuners you could easily just set the engine to jump to closed loop at a very low op temp and then just make your WOT open tables super rich.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2014 9:50 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

You are correct, yours has some upgrades that do make it "better", but it's only marginal. Any sort of extra power is still problematic. You might get lucky though, some people mod the hell out of the car and have no issues and some people go through transmissions like underwear.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 6:20 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Im no stranger to having to do supporting mods...The 99-04 Lightnings have s**t con-rods in the btm end from the factory which restricts the max power you can make on stock btm end to about 475rwhp/550rwtqs...so if ya wanna go higher than that (which doesn't take much, e85 and 16-18#s boost) you have to build the btm end.
SO with my Impala before i put the turbo on I plan to upgrade the drive chain in the transmission, slap a better converter in it, upsize the trans cooler, put a deeper pan on it, upgrade the dog bones, engine / trans mounts, add a shift kit, as well as switch to GTP differential and axles.
Any other suggestions while im in there???
Im not trying to build a race car just want to make my daily beater a little more fun while doing some upgrades to make it last longer and be able to keep up with my wifeys 2013 ecoboost 2.0 Escape.




This past week I picked up this nice 3" inlet/2.5" outlet on compressor T3/T4 60 trim .63 AR turbo for my L36T build. Max flow is over 700cfm @20#s boost which should be more than plenty for running 8#s boost on the mostly stock L36 I have.I know I want to swap to a ported and polished L26 UIM and northstar TB. I am wondering if switching to a nice set of heavy valve springs and higher ratio roller rockers would be a good idea?!?
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 10:52 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I'd love to this twin turbo set up!….watching….

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 11:22 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

i want a build thread with pics or else it never happened Cool

would be a fun build to keep up with.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

04SilverbulletLS wrote:
On most Vblock fuel injected vehicles with a primary O2 sensor on each bank of cylinders the ECU will adjust injector pulsewidth independently for each bank once its gone from open to closed loop and begins to reference those O2s and adjust LT fuel trims. The only fueling and AFR concern is when the engine is cold and in open loop, running off the base tables and not referencing those 02s.


L36 / L67 engines all use a single O2 (Bank 1) to determine fueling for both front and rear banks (located on the rear manifold). So you will get no compensation for the front bank like you would in an engine with two banks of fuel controlling O2's. Bank 2 on an L36 / L67 car is the post CAT O2. It's doable but you will be doing a lot of plug reading and flying by the seat of your pants to get it tuned in right.

Find a DHP tuner and use tinytuner to do all your tuning, it's by far the best option for tuning these cars and it will save you from getting boned up the ass by HPT. I use HPT to scan, and to easily graph out my MAF and timing tables. All editing is done with TT as it has more tables enabled for modification (above and beyond what is available for HPT). I use the DHP to read / flash.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2014 1:57 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I've done the L26 swap, waste of time and money unless you're using a Northstar throttle body.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:47 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

habermehl wrote:
I'd love to this twin turbo set up!….watching….


After doing some digging and running up on a steal of a 60 trim turbo, I decided to go with the single turbo for now since its more than big enough for my goal of 300 hp.

nightryder wrote:
04SilverbulletLS wrote:
On most Vblock fuel injected vehicles with a primary O2 sensor on each bank of cylinders the ECU will adjust injector pulsewidth independently for each bank once its gone from open to closed loop and begins to reference those O2s and adjust LT fuel trims. The only fueling and AFR concern is when the engine is cold and in open loop, running off the base tables and not referencing those 02s.


L36 / L67 engines all use a single O2 (Bank 1) to determine fueling for both front and rear banks (located on the rear manifold). So you will get no compensation for the front bank like you would in an engine with two banks of fuel controlling O2's. Bank 2 on an L36 / L67 car is the post CAT O2. It's doable but you will be doing a lot of plug reading and flying by the seat of your pants to get it tuned in right.

Find a DHP tuner and use tinytuner to do all your tuning, it's by far the best option for tuning these cars and it will save you from getting boned up the ass by HPT. I use HPT to scan, and to easily graph out my MAF and timing tables. All editing is done with TT as it has more tables enabled for modification (above and beyond what is available for HPT). I use the DHP to read / flash.


Hey thanks for the heads up...I hadn't looked into the O2 placement yet and its so common now for Vblock engines to use a primary O2 in each bank that I hadnt even considered there only being 1.

I will post up the build in here as it goes along. I got some new slotted rotors and ebc pads to slap on it this week and I'll be taking my measurements to order my flanges and hot side tubing.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:09 pm    Post subject:  update Reply with quote

Put a 4" HAI together and started testing placement for the turbo.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

IffyG wrote:
You are correct, yours has some upgrades that do make it "better", but it's only marginal. Any sort of extra power is still problematic. You might get lucky though, some people mod the hell out of the car and have no issues and some people go through transmissions like underwear.



I been lucky with my rebuild but it doe slightly kick into second gear only when the engine has been running awhile
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