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Replaced the battery, now the car won't start (FIXED)
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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 8:43 pm    Post subject: Grrrr ! Replaced the battery, now the car won't start (FIXED) Reply with quote

My battery was leaking and did not take a charge, so today I replaced it with a new battery. It started, but then two seconds later, the engine suddenly died and now it won't even crank. I disconnected it and it started for a few seconds, then died again. I tried disconnecting it a second time, but it will no longer even crank. My car is a 2003 9C1.

The battery is fully charged, everything in the car has power, but it will not crank. When the key is in the ON position, the radio displays "CAL ERR" between song/station, no idiot lights are on, and the info panel flashes between low fuel and service vehicle soon. It did display security at one point, but now it doesn't. For some reason, the transmission gear positions aren't displayed either. Only the odometer is displayed. I checked all the fuses with a multimeter and they all passed. Please help!

EDIT: The first time the engine died, I remember moving around a relay near the battery; the engine died the second I moved it. I have no idea what it is called, so here's some pics:





Last edited by boostin9C1 on Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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Dragulajeeper
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:21 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thats not a relay its part of the electrical harness its a connector. If you can move the harness and the connector and the engine stops running then it sounds like you have a loose wire in that connector. That is just my .02

Anyone else?

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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:36 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Yeah I meant to say harness, lol.. stupid tiredness. I tried playing with it and it still won't start. How do I check if a wire is loose? I'm afraid to remove the wires or anything. Also, it may have been a coincidence that it died at that moment. I've had to jump my car a bunch of times in the past couple of weeks, maybe the jumping fried the BCM or something?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:00 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

boostin9C1 wrote:
I've had to jump my car a bunch of times in the past couple of weeks, maybe the jumping fried the BCM or something?


Thats a BIG possibility, these cars do not like jumping. I fried a BCM already doing that.

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Frank
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:04 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Kirkland Power! Very Happy

I had similar problems a few months back; ended up being a bad positive battery cable...the factory cable was cut at the terminal and an aftermarket terminal was used...which eventually corroded and loosened up and was making poor contact.

I could usually get the car started by jumping it just because the clamps would cause the terminal to make a tighter connection with the wires.

I finally replaced the entire cable and haven't had a problem since. Smile

You could also have a fried BCM. I've fried one before, and it does some weird stuff.

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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 11:13 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Interesting.. I don't think it's a battery cable because everything in the car has power. I'm starting to think I fried the BCM or something. Is there any way to know for sure if the BCM is fried? All the exterior/interior lights work, except for a few here and there that weren't working since I got the car (the blower position knob on the A/C and the driver's side window control buttons).

Also, if the BCM was fried, why did it start the first couple of times? Maybe it's the security system? If so, wouldn't the "security" light blink or stay on?
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Frank
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:02 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

BCMs do different things...it can be diagnosed with a Tech2, but even then it can be sometimes difficult.

The SVS light typically indicates a wiring fault or short...that could be your problem as well. They can be real tricky to track down if it's a real fault.

I would check that harness that you moved right above the serpentine belt area, and pull the wire loom back on it if you can to take a look at the actual wires. It's a common fraying area, and that could potentially be the problem.

I was having some big problems with my cooling fans 2 years ago because of a short there.

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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:03 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

OK, thanks. I'll definitely check it out. How exactly do you get to those wires?
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 8:26 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

boostin9C1 wrote:
I don't think it's a battery cable because everything in the car has power.


My cable/terminal went bad and the car still had power, just wouldn't start....
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:57 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

boostin9C1 wrote:
OK, thanks. I'll definitely check it out. How exactly do you get to those wires?


Carefully cut/unwind the electrical tape in that area and see if you can pull back the wire loom and inspect the wires...

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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 6:27 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I checked the battery cables and the harness. So far, I don't see anything wrong. The cables rang through when checked with a multimeter, and the wires coming into the harness aren't broken. Perhaps the wires inside the harness itself are damaged, but I have no idea how to open the thing itself.

I'm starting to think it's the BCM, but it doesn't make any sense that the engine started up and ran fine for about 10 seconds those two times. Unless the BCM was damaged when the battery was installed, and finally fried when starting it the second time around. Could it be a passkey issue? The message center box only shows "SERVICE ENGINE SOON", not "SECURITY".

Another interesting observation.. you know that buzzing and humming noise you hear from the engine when you disconnect the battery and reconnect it? Like some relays or other electronic components activating? Well, my car doesn't make that noise now. I've talked to about half a dozen mechanics now, and noone knows what the hell this could possibly be. If anyone here can help me fix this problem, I'll even paypal them some dough.

EDIT: I just realized that the battery was disconnected for two hours while I went out and got the new battery. Maybe programming was erased from something?
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:26 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Make sure your connections on your battery are good and tight. my positive terminal was FUBAR and not making a good connection. Every thing in the car worked fine until I turned the key and nothing happened and the inside of the car went crazy. I tested the connections too and they all checked out, it wasn't until I cleaned the terminal and took off the red plastic and put everything back together and its worked fine since...might not be your problem but giving it a shot is a hell of alot cheaper then a new BCM
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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 2:32 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

I cleaned the corroded positive terminal about a week ago, so it's all good on that end. I'm pretty sure either something is fried or I need to have the Passlock system reprogrammed.
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boostin9C1
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 2:41 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

OK, I had a guy with a tech II come by to try and diagnose the problem, and he says he can't communicate with the PCM, but I've read that no connection = bad BCM. Weird. I guess I'll trust him though. Can I just go to a junkyard and buy a used one? Will it matter that my car was a 9C1, and would I have to do a case learn? If so, I'll probably just order a tuned PCM.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 04, 2007 3:05 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

BCMs can only be programmed once, so a junker won't work.

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