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Rear Defroster Problem...

 
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fyreline
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:15 pm    Post subject:  Rear Defroster Problem... Reply with quote

While this may not be that big a deal in some parts of the country, here in the northeast it is . . . my rear defroster seems to have stopped working. Fuse is OK, and the mirrors work so the switch is OK. Could it be where the wires attach to the grid on the rear glass? It seems a little loose. Can the dealer just re-solder it (or can I) or is this one of those seemingly-simple but in reality huge pain-in-the butt problems?. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Sabrewings
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 6:41 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

One of those pain the butt problems I think. I don't know exactly how its affixed to the window, but I don't think those wires can just be soldered or glued down. May want to take to a dealer and have them look at it.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:47 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

If the whole grid doesn't work, double check the connections at either side of the glass. If part of it only works,one of your grids probably broke. If you find a broken grid, they make repair kits you can pick up at a local parts store.
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whitelightnin04MC
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:51 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Make sure that if it's really cold where you are that the dealer doesn't try to solder the connections onto the cold rear window. They could potentially shatter the window.

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bigev007
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 3:49 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Mine has the same or at least a similar problem. Fuse, grid, relay all seem to check out, but it will barely light a test light on the grid. I've given up after a year, and just use the mirrors more (north eastern Canada, so I understand the importance of having it).

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 4:20 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

My fiancee's Cavalier's rear defroster's connections melted causing it not to work, luckily the car was still under warranty at the time. The switch worked (light came on)...the fuse wasn't blown...but it wasn't defrosting at all.

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fyreline
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 8:08 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Well, I took a little closer look at it today and I found the problem . . . when I took hold of the plug-in connector it popped right off the glass. Am I correct in assuming that once I have the car inside and properly warmed up, I can just re-solder the connection?
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nightryder
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 2:25 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

make sure the glass is good and warm might consider taking a hair dryer to it to heat it up slowly. when you solder don't leave the iron on there for long just short little "bursts"

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:49 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Hello all, I am looking for some help on my rear defrost issue. There don't seem to be many posts on these, but I found this one. I know that my tabs are OK, so it is not the same issue as above, but I don't know where to look next.

What I know:
There is no voltage being dropped across the heating grid from one tab to the other; I measure 0 volts.
There is no short to the radio antenna; I measured open resistance.
There is no problem with the relay that provides the 14.5 volts to the grid; I measure 14.5 volts with the grid disconnected.
There is a small black box, that Chevrolet calls a "module", behind the driver's side rear pillar. I have removed this, checked all connections, and put dielectric grease on the connections before I re-connected. This does not appear to be the problem.

What I think:
Is that there is a high impedence connection or start of a break somewhere in the lines that is dropping the voltage across it, and that is why I am not seeing the voltage drop across the heating element.

What I haven't checked:
The wiring from front to rear, as it has been very cold, and that is hard to get at.
The circuit breaker, because I can't find it!
Help me here, please!
Here is the passenger side fuse/breaker panel:

You can see that it has the relay, and that is great. But this label

shows the breaker as being here somewhere, and when I pull off the black cover that is on the right there, all there is are about 20 wires coming from a connector.
I would like to find the breaker, and I would like any ideas that anyone has.
Maybe if someone has a wiring diagram of this portion of the 2003, if they could post it or send it to me?
Thanks in advance.
Ogre
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03slvrLS
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:48 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

look at the back of the piece that was connected to the glass check if it looks like it was melted a little bit 9/10 rear windows the clips have something in them that is like solder and when there put together it just melts the clip I used to work at PPG (a car window company) i dont know if just soldering it back on will work but if you try it we used a fiber glass swab looking thing to scratch anything off of the area it sticks to
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ogre73
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 2:00 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Thanks, I will take another look, but I have tested the tabs for firmness (good) many times, and also done an Ohmmeter reading about five different times, and they are conducting fine. My grid from tab to tab measures about 2.5 to 3.5 Ohms.
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Kawosa
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 2:26 am    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Lemme see if I got this right:
Tab A to Tab B =3 ohms and 0 volt drop.
Tab A = applied voltage
Tab B= ?
Sounds like an open current path to ground. Ohm readings can be tricky since you could be back-reading through a relay coil or something.

Check your ground path.

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ogre73
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:14 pm    Post subject:   Reply with quote

Kawosa wrote:
Lemme see if I got this right:
Tab A to Tab B =3 ohms and 0 volt drop.

Yes.
Kawosa wrote:
Tab A = applied voltage

Yes
Kawosa wrote:
Tab B= ?

With tab A connected to Va or no?
With tab A (Va) and tab B (gnd side) connected, I read 0V between tabs.
Disconnect tab A and measure from Va wire to body ground, 14.5V.
Reconnect tab A, disconnect tab B. Measure tab B to body ground, 14.5V.

Kawosa wrote:
Sounds like an open current path to ground. Ohm readings can be tricky since you could be back-reading through a relay coil or something.

Check your ground path.


My next step is to check the ground side of the circuit in the following manner:
Disconnect tab B (gnd side). Alligator clip from body ground to tab B. Power defrost, see if it heats. This will tell me if the ground path is compromised. It will have to wait until the car gets home with my wife in it.
Ogre
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